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    Sip and Shoot

    Gin it to win it: Bombay Sapphire bartender competition brings out Houston'sbest

    Sarah Rufca
    Aug 20, 2011 | 10:00 am
    • Photo by Sarah Rufca
    • The bar at Hughes Hangar
    • Photo by Kim Padgett

    Everything at Hughes Hangar was accented in shades of Bombay Sapphire's signature aquamarine blue for the Bombay Sapphire GQ-Inspired Bartender cocktail competition on Tuesday night.

    As the Houston Burlesque Review showed off their sexy dance moves, the judges took seats front and center at the bar, where nearly 20 local bartenders and mixologists from across Houston would have one shot to make a gin cocktail that could earn them fame and glory.

    The winner of the Houston competition got a trip to compete in the national finals at The Palms in Las Vegas, plus a chance to land of the cover of GQ with their creation.

    Judge Chip Hight brought a chef's palate to the table, while Bombay Sapphire brand ambassador Gary Hayward (who is probably the closest approximation to a real-life James Bond that I'll ever meet) added a laser-sharp attention to detail and a British accent (very important in any judging trio). As for me, I just brought my camera and a curiosity about how the flavor would be played with and highlighted.

    Nicholas, from the Museum District's new lounge, 5015, led the night off with a jalepeño-heavy Southern Sapphire Gimlet, followed by Kimberly Pollack of Cullen's with a sweet honeydew blend she called a Saint Bombay. The rest of the competitors followed these patterns of sweet and fruity or strong and packing heat.

    Nerves seemed to plague many competitors — some were flustered looking for specific ingredients or strainers, one knocked a full martini in the direction of one judge, another managed to break his shaker glass against the bar as he was shaking it, and one bartender almost forgot to add the Bombay Sapphire to his mix until prompted by the judges. I also learned there are a few ingredients I never want to taste in a cocktail ever again, notably grappa and radish juice. There's a thin line, as it turns out, between inspired and insane.

    Among a crowded field, a few drinks stood above the rest. Chedda, from Grand Prize Bar, loosened up the competition (and the judges) by offering up a round of Jager shots before using the liquor in his drink, dubbed the Montrose Gin. A mix of grapefruit juice, lime juice, gin, black pepper and grapefruit house-made simple syrup and garnished with a squash blossom, the cocktail earned him third place.

    Representing Anvil Bar & Refuge, I liked Alba's hibiscus-heavy, Indian korma-like Corundum Tide, made with lemon and coconut puree. John, who was representing host bar Hughes Hangar, made a really nice Abel's Gin Fizz that was pleasantly gingery and light.

    For the top two, competition was locked between Claire Sprouse, lately of Beaver's and competing on behalf of Grand Prize, and Anvil's Alex Gregg. Sprouse's Rumours Bombay cocktail mixed a reduced simple syrup of clove, coriander and triple karmeliet beer with gin, lemon juice and fresh hops to garnish, with a result that was complex, refreshing and subtly sweet. Gregg also started with an impressive simple syrup derived from the culinary staple of mirepoix (an aromatic blend of carrot, celery and onion), and added celery bitters, ginger beer, lemon juice, apricot brandy and gin with a garnish of carrot wrapped in bacon, dubbing the drink the Sapphire Fiddle.

    In the end, Gregg was crowned Houston's champion for his inspired use of ingredients, and celebrated his victory with a mass hug from his Anvil co-workers and friends. Fans wanting a taste can order the Zydeco Fiddle at Anvil, the drink that Gregg's creation was based on.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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    news/restaurants-bars
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