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    Nothing like a facelift

    Packed to the rafters, a storied steakhouse reopens with a crush after $5 million revamp

    Shelby Hodge
    shelby hodge
    Jul 9, 2013 | 1:42 pm

    It was standing room only with customers three deep at the bar Monday night as The Palm officially raised the curtain on its $5 million renovation and expansion. If the energy level and enthusiasm of customers on opening night was any indication, the steakhouse is set to rock and roll.

    As early as 6 o'clock, regulars and newcomers, eager to get a look-see at the new 9,000 square foot digs, were already raising the din to party levels. In the dining room, regulars such as Sherry and Johnny Chen were joined by Fu Nig and Aaron Chen in one of the sleek red leather, tufted booths, all four ordering lobster dinners. Their obvious glee at the refurbished setting was matched by that of The Palm co-chairman and third generation co-owner Wally Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke. The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    He and wife Sandy, along with other Palm execs, had flown in from headquarters in Washington D.C. for the opening festivities. "I think it's actually our nicest restaurant that we've ever built in our lives," Ganzi said. "I've been doing this for 50 years, we're in the third generation. We opened this restaurant (in Houston) in 1978 which I thought was beautiful."

    The original steakhouse was opened by the Ganzi and Bozzi families in New York in 1926. With the re-opening of the Houston location, the families (Bozzi represented by fourth generation Bruce Bozzi Jr., the group's executive vice president) brought in Monsignor Frank Rossi to deliver a blessing, which he did, complete with prayer and holy water.

    The Houston renovation is the prototype for redesign of the group's restaurants across the country. "What we tried to do was combine the old and the new," Ganzi said. "Meaning that I don't want to offend the older customers who liked The Palm for what it was. But also you have to pay attention to the new young customers who are coming in.

    "So we tried to combine the feel of both here . . . We've hired a young crew to go along with the old crew, a combination again of both, a mix that I think is going to go great."

    Case in point, executive director Jimmy Martin, whom Ganzi convinced to leave New York in the 1970s to head up the Houston operation. Thirty-five years later Martin remains at the helm, now assisted by general manager Scott Sieck, most recently of Del Frisco's Grille. With their team well-trained, service ran at the A+ level.

    The Palm regulars will recognize familiar design touches including the caricature mural of notables and Houston-centric images. Former President George H.W. Bush and Barbara Bush, Becca Cason Thrash and Jack Rains are among the personalties pictured along with images of oil rigs, the space shuttle, Reliant Stadium and a spaghetti bowl of freeways.

    The restaurant was able to expand, now with seating for 320, by taking over the space next door once occupied by a cigar shop. And that was a double bonus according to Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke," he said. "The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    The kitchen, under direction of executive chef Ricardo Ramirez, hummed Monday night with orders for filet, bone-in ribeye and lobster topping the popularity chart. Part of the appeal of the lobster might have been the Summer Lobster dinner for two, priced at $79.95, offered through Aug. 31.

    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.

    2 The Palm Houston grand re-opening July 2013
    Photo by © Roswitha Vogler Photosbyrovo.com
    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.
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    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

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