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    Nothing like a facelift

    Packed to the rafters, a storied steakhouse reopens with a crush after $5 million revamp

    Shelby Hodge
    shelby hodge
    Jul 9, 2013 | 1:42 pm

    It was standing room only with customers three deep at the bar Monday night as The Palm officially raised the curtain on its $5 million renovation and expansion. If the energy level and enthusiasm of customers on opening night was any indication, the steakhouse is set to rock and roll.

    As early as 6 o'clock, regulars and newcomers, eager to get a look-see at the new 9,000 square foot digs, were already raising the din to party levels. In the dining room, regulars such as Sherry and Johnny Chen were joined by Fu Nig and Aaron Chen in one of the sleek red leather, tufted booths, all four ordering lobster dinners. Their obvious glee at the refurbished setting was matched by that of The Palm co-chairman and third generation co-owner Wally Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke. The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    He and wife Sandy, along with other Palm execs, had flown in from headquarters in Washington D.C. for the opening festivities. "I think it's actually our nicest restaurant that we've ever built in our lives," Ganzi said. "I've been doing this for 50 years, we're in the third generation. We opened this restaurant (in Houston) in 1978 which I thought was beautiful."

    The original steakhouse was opened by the Ganzi and Bozzi families in New York in 1926. With the re-opening of the Houston location, the families (Bozzi represented by fourth generation Bruce Bozzi Jr., the group's executive vice president) brought in Monsignor Frank Rossi to deliver a blessing, which he did, complete with prayer and holy water.

    The Houston renovation is the prototype for redesign of the group's restaurants across the country. "What we tried to do was combine the old and the new," Ganzi said. "Meaning that I don't want to offend the older customers who liked The Palm for what it was. But also you have to pay attention to the new young customers who are coming in.

    "So we tried to combine the feel of both here . . . We've hired a young crew to go along with the old crew, a combination again of both, a mix that I think is going to go great."

    Case in point, executive director Jimmy Martin, whom Ganzi convinced to leave New York in the 1970s to head up the Houston operation. Thirty-five years later Martin remains at the helm, now assisted by general manager Scott Sieck, most recently of Del Frisco's Grille. With their team well-trained, service ran at the A+ level.

    The Palm regulars will recognize familiar design touches including the caricature mural of notables and Houston-centric images. Former President George H.W. Bush and Barbara Bush, Becca Cason Thrash and Jack Rains are among the personalties pictured along with images of oil rigs, the space shuttle, Reliant Stadium and a spaghetti bowl of freeways.

    The restaurant was able to expand, now with seating for 320, by taking over the space next door once occupied by a cigar shop. And that was a double bonus according to Ganzi.

    "We got rid of the cigar smoke," he said. "The smoke really offended a lot of people in our private dining room."

    The kitchen, under direction of executive chef Ricardo Ramirez, hummed Monday night with orders for filet, bone-in ribeye and lobster topping the popularity chart. Part of the appeal of the lobster might have been the Summer Lobster dinner for two, priced at $79.95, offered through Aug. 31.

    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.

    2 The Palm Houston grand re-opening July 2013
    Photo by © Roswitha Vogler Photosbyrovo.com
    The sleek reincarnation of The Palm opens its doors to a sell-out crowd of giddy diners.
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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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