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    Food for Thought

    Cha-cha-changes at favorite restaurants can be hard to stomach

    Marene Gustin
    Jul 8, 2012 | 3:00 pm
    • Originally built as a daycare center some 40-plus years ago, the buildinghousing Blanco's Bar & Grill has been a honky tonk for decades.,
      Blanco's Bar & Grill/Facebook
    • I was not thrilled last week when dining at Ava Kitchen & Whiskey Bar and myfavorite waiter said they were closing.
      Ava Kitchen & Whiskey Bar/Facebook
    • I’m feeling much better about these changes since dining at Carrabba’s new Mia’sa block over.
      Mia's Table/Facebook

    I don’t like change.

    I’ve lived in the same place for almost eight years, the longest I’ve ever lived in one spot. But I’m moving now and so the whole thought of changing — my living space, what’s next door, what street I turn on…is freaking me out. The only thing I like less than moving is dental surgery. I’ve had major 14-hour medical surgery before and I prefer that to moving. You go to sleep, you wake up, and it’s all over.

    I think a moving company could make a fortune if they sedated you, moved you, and you could just wake up in the new place with all your stuff put up and pictures hanging on the wall.

    So, seriously, I need some consistency in my life right now.

    All is not lost, some of the staff and some of the dishes at Ava will move upstairs to Alto. I just hope they take the artichoke dip and the buttermilk dipped fried chicken sandwiches with them.

    And that means you, yes, restaurants.

    I dislike like it when you start changing your hours, menus (well, I like seasonal changes but don’t drop my favorite dishes) and sometimes just pulling up stakes.

    I was not thrilled last week when dining at Ava Kitchen & Whiskey Bar and my favorite waiter said they were closing. I always liked the Schiller Del Grande concept of two restaurants in one two-story space. Walk in the door of the stunning space and decide, hmmm, do I want to eat pizza upstairs at Alto Pizzeria or a steak downstairs at Ava?

    But all is not lost, some of the staff and some of the dishes at Ava will move upstairs to Alto. I just hope they take the artichoke dip and the buttermilk dipped fried chicken sandwiches with them.

    Carrabba's many changes

    At least I’m preparing for the Carrabba changes. Sitting outside the Mister Car wash on Kirby Drive the last few months I watched the build-out for the new Carrabba’s, which will move next door, and allow the old space to be turned into a new upscale Italian eatery called Grace’s.

    I’m feeling much better about these changes since dining at Carrabba’s new Mia’s a block over. The country store kitsch is a bit much but you can’t argue with free soft-serve ice cream and fried chicken fingers with jalapeño gravy.

    Oh, and the fact that Johnny Carrabba himself came by the table and bought us a round of beers. And no, he had no idea who I was. A friend of mine said he sent him a piece of cake just as a thank you for coming in, so I’m guessing he’s just a really smart guy who knows how to keep customers coming back.

    But there are some changes that are just a little too much. Even if they are changes for the better.

    Blanco's big changes

    I’ve been eating at Blanco’s Bar & Grill for a couple of years now. When I tell people it’s one of my favorite lunch/burger joints they have two reactions: One, they thought it was just a dive bar with country music that didn’t serve food, or, two, they’ve driven by it a hundred times but didn’t know what the heck it was.

    So here’s the rundown: Blanco’s is an old-time country dive. It’s that ramshackle powder blue building that sits on a huge shell-crushed lot on West Alabama at Buffalo Speedway in the shadow of high-rise apartments and new office buildings. You stumble across the parking lot to the creaking stairs and pull on the dangling glass doorknob to enter the darkened bar that used to be home to eclectic country memories, stuffed animals decorated with odd things and restrooms that were hidden by an ancient door covered in band posters.

    A female patron commented that it was so bright now that she could see the food she was eating. I think she was joking. And the original commenter asked: “What’s next? Gourmet pizza on the menu?”

    Originally built as a daycare center some 40-plus years ago, the building has been a honky tonk for decades, first as Hondo’s and then as Blanco’s when Barry E. DeBakey, son of the late heart surgeon Michael DeBakey, bought the business 30 years ago.

    Yes, they have boot scootin' and bands at night but they also have cheap, hearty food from 11 a.m. to closing. I’ve always said that the burgers are the best because they haven’t cleaned the grill in decades, and they make a heck of a retro club sandwich on white bread with a lot of mayonnaise. Meat loaf specials and fried fish on Fridays. Get the idea? It’s not a foodie haven, but it’s darn tasty.

    When DeBakey died in 2007 he left the business to his son and the manager. And things stayed pretty much the same until the last few months.

    That’s when they started to spiff the place up.

    First, there was some new paint. Then the threadbare chairs were replaced and new plastic checkered tablecloths appeared.

    And then, one day, there was light.

    “Wow,” said a burly construction worker walking in. “What’s with the light?”

    I had no idea there were two windows on the west side of the building. They had been blown out during Hurricane Ike and boarded up since 2008. But now they have been replaced.

    A female patron commented that it was so bright now that she could see the food she was eating. I think she was joking. And the original commenter asked: “What’s next? Gourmet pizza on the menu?”

    Gone are a lot of the stickers, photos and memorabilia from days gone by. Some of the Christmas lights have left although the hats and cut-off ties from Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo committee chairs have moved to inside the dance floor. The stuffed coyote is still there, sans his Mardi Gras beads and moved from his spot atop an antique cigarette machine, as is the slightly moth-eaten American bison by the beer cooler.

    And the restrooms? Well, now there’s a sign on the door and a handle, although the dangling doorknob is still there. And inside the ladies’ room there’s new paint and new fixtures. It’s a little alarming, although it is nicer, I must admit.

    Clearly Blanco’s was overdue for a facelift. I’m getting used to all the changes but what I miss most are the two deer heads over the bar. Oh, they’re still there. But patrons used to throw beer can pull-tabs over the antlers and one of them sported ruby red wax lips. But no longer.

    Although they did just put an old wooden picture frame around one of the heads. Which is kinda cool and is starting to make the place look like the old, weird, cool place I love.

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Where to drink now

    CultureMap's 11 favorite new bars that shook up Houston in 2025

    Brianna McClane
    Dec 29, 2025 | 5:15 pm
    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    This was a standout year for new bars in Houston, with elevated cocktail lounges opening alongside neighborhood hangouts. Whether you’re after a cold beer while watching the Texans on a Heights patio or a tiny martini inside an emerald-green, celestial-inspired hideaway near the Galleria, these 11 openings defined Houston’s bar scene in 2025.

    Augustine Lounge
    Hotel Saint Augustine has been racking up awards since it opened — receiving a Michelin Key and best new hotel honors from both Esquire and Travel + Leisure. Its bar, Augustine Lounge, matches that acclaim with a focused drinks program featuring highlights like the Coyote Call, a mix of mezcal, port, and Blackstrap rum accented with raspberry, lime, and nutmeg. The food menu leans elevated but unfussy, with offerings such as a charcuterie board with duck prosciutto and a wagyu hot dog tucked into a brioche bun. It also hosts vinyl nights featuring DJ sets from high profile Houstonians. Augustine Lounge is located at 4110 Loretto Drive and open daily from 11 am-12 am.

    Bar Doko
    Created by Duckstache Hospitality experts (Kokoro, Handies Douzo, Himari, and Aiko) as a companion to its sushi restaurant Doko, Bar Doko has an intimate, 16-seat atmosphere and an extensive selection of Japanese whisky. Small bites shine here, including a masu crudo topped with smoked trout roe and a Jidori egg salad toast. Beverage options range from highballs, martinis, sake, beer, and wine to inventive cocktails like the “Sora” Sky, made with sesame-infused tequila, Maven cold brew, toasted barley, coffee liqueur, and vanilla miso foam. Bar Doko is located at 3737 Cogdell Street, Suite 135, and is open daily from 4 pm-2 am.

    Bar Madonna
    One doesn’t need a room at the Marlene Inn — a grand neoclassical home turned nine-room hotel — to enjoy this elegant watering hole. Bar Madonna takes its name from a striking, 10-foot painting of the Virgin Mary, relocated from an 18th-century Italian church. Leading the beverage program is Tom Hardy, formerly of Hotel Saint Augustine, whose menu balances Old World influence with New Orleans flair.

    This is a seated-only bar, offering 12 interior seats plus additional patio seating, and while reservations aren’t required, they’re often helpful. Signature libations include the Wild Ouest, a tequila-forward blend with poblano, lime, and mezcal inspired by “cowboy boots down the Champs-Élysées.” Bar Madonna is open Monday-Thursday from 3-10 pm, Friday from 3-11 pm, Saturday from 12-11 pm, and Sunday from 12-10 pm.

    Berwick’s Bird of Paradise
    A tropical escape awaits at Berwick’s Bird of Paradise, created by veteran bartender Robin Berwick of Midtown's beloved Double Trouble. The space was fully renovated to invoke a resort bar attached to an imaginary hotel, complete with playful design touches and a mythical “owner” depicted on the wall. Tropical drinks anchor the menu — think spicy, frozen tequila riffs and a coconut-infused Crocodile Tears Martini — alongside a selection of bar bites like smash burgers, chicken wings, and a Bikini sandwich. Known colloquially as "Be Bop," the bar has quickly attracted locals, industry regulars, and neighbors. Open Tuesday-Thursday from 4 pm-12 am, Friday-Saturday from 3 pm-1 am, and Sunday from 2 pm-10 pm, Berwick’s Bird of Paradise is at 2020 Studewood Street.

    Donna’s
    The newest cocktail destination on this list, Donna’s quickly built a following after opening Thanksgiving weekend in the former Ready Room space. Named after the grandmother of co-founder Jacki Schromm, the bar is a collaboration between the veteran bartender and Anvil owner Bobby Heugel. Together, the duo aims to create a house-party atmosphere, with energetic weekends balanced by more laid-back weeknights. A vintage stereo system — complete with a reel-to-reel and a turntable — sets the soundtrack, loud enough to entertain but low enough for conversations. The Jacki’s Martini, a 50-50 mix of gin with Cocchi Americano and Dolin Blanc vermouth, nods to both the “Bobby’s Martini” at Refuge and Squable’s “Terry’s Martini.” Donna's is open daily from 2 pm-2 am at 2626 White Oak Drive.

    Endless Bummer
    Walk the line between Houston and hell at Endless Bummer, the tiki bar next to Beteleguese Beteleguese’s Montrose location. Skeletons, imps, and tiki idols fill the 50-seat space, turning Endless Bummer into an immersive experience displaying works by local artists. The cocktail menu reimagines tropical standards like daiquiris, mai tais, and punches, while originals include the Banana Hammock — a banana-coffee vodka drink — and the Bitter Bird, made with Jamaican rum, Campari, pineapple, yuzu, and strawberry. Located at 4500 Montrose Boulevard, Endless Bummer is open Wednesday-Sunday, from 5 pm-12 am.

    Good God, Nadine’s
    Designed to feel like the home of “everyone’s favorite eccentric aunt,” Good God, Nadine’s delivers a warm, casual atmosphere paired with playful, comfort-forward drinks. The Washington Corridor bar offers 17 beers and wines on tap, along with cocktails like the Mango Sticky Rice, made with vodka, coconut milk, mango, and pandan. Food options range from po' boys to cast-iron cornbread and oysters on the half shell. Patrons can choose between three distinct areas: an indoor bar, an air-conditioned patio, and a garden patio. Good God, Nadine’s sits at 33 Waugh Drive, and is open Tuesday-Saturday from 4 pm-12 am, and Sunday from 12 pm-8 pm.

    The Kid
    With a comfortable bartop, moody-but-visible lighting, and ample seating — The Kid nails the feel of a classic neighborhood hang. Inside, charming baby goat figurines — aka “kids” — peek out from behind chicken wire room dividers, while an astroturfed patio outside offers a prime spot to catch a game. From the team behind Flying Fish, Flying Saucer, and Rodeo Goat, the bar continues the group’s tradition of approachable comfort food, including burgers and loaded tater tots. Drink options include the La Fresita, a refreshing creation of tequila, strawberry, peach, lemon, and prosecco. Happy hour is weekdays from 4 pm-7 pm, with $8 cocktails and wines, plus an all-day happy hour on Tuesdays. Located at 1815 N. Durham Drive, The Kid is open Monday-Thursday, 4 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday, 4 pm-2 am.

    Hotel Saint Augustine lobby bar
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Eclectic vintage finds populate the walk-up bar at Augustine Lounge in Hotel Saint Augustine.

    Moon
    Perched above Tavola, Moon is an elegant cocktail lounge inspired by the cosmos. A joint concept from the Bastion Collection — the hospitality group behind Michelin-starred Le Jardinier at the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston — and Cafe Natalie, Moon’s food options range from a black truffle croque monsieur to the Dark Side of the Moon, a chocolate moelleux with hazelnut crunch. House cocktails like the Nightfall, featuring spiced WhistlePig rye, dark rum, Oloroso sherry, and cherry, sit alongside classics such as French 75s, wines, mocktails, tiny martinis, and shots. For those craving something off-menu, head bartender Joao Diniz is known for crafting bespoke drinks on request. Moon is located at 1800 Post Oak Boulevard, Suite 6110, and is open Tuesday-Thursday from 5 pm-12 am, and Friday and Saturday from 5 pm-2 am.

    Starduster Lounge
    There’s something both nostalgic and timeless about Starduster Lounge, a Heights neighborhood bar that puts a subtle cosmic spin on West Texas style. Will Thomas, co-founder of White Oak Music Hall and owner of Dan Electro’s, teamed up with Benjy Mason of Johnny’s Gold Brick and Winnie’s to transform the nearly 100-year-old building into a charming destination with a rustic yet refined interior of leather, vintage tile, and wood, and a spacious, tree-shaded backyard. The menu is constantly evolving, but standout drinks include the Pecan or Pecan?, with rye, bourbon, and Licor 43. Steak night is on Thursdays, with other food offerings announced via the bar’s Instagram. Happy hour is Monday-Friday, 4 pm-6 pm, with half-off cocktails. Starduster Lounge is located at 3921 N. Main and is open Monday-Friday from 4 pm-2 am, and Saturday and Sunday from 2 pm-2 am.

    CultureMap editor Eric Sandler's Honorable Mention: Montrose Grocer
    Building on her experience as the owner of Avondale Food & Wine and Heights Grocer, Houston entrepreneur Mary Clarkson opened this wine shop next to Catbirds. What distinguishes it from Heights Grocer is that MG also has a carefully-chosen selection of wines by-the-glass and bottle available for drinking on-site. Paired with snacks in the form of sandwiches and charcuterie boards and enhanced by a soundtrack of 4,000 records, Montrose Grocer has become a popular spot with hospitality workers and wine lovers who appreciate its low key atmosphere and affordable prices. (Full disclosure: Clarkson and Sandler are friends. She is a regular contributor to CultureMap's "What's Eric Eating" podcast.)

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