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    Foodie News

    McCormick & Schmick's goes bold: Chef Bill McKinley brings a new taste home toTown & Country

    Sarah Rufca
    Jun 6, 2010 | 11:22 am
    • Chef Bill McKinley will head the kitchen at the new McCormick & Schmick's inTown & Country Village.
      Photo by Mark Hiebert
    • McKinley's crabcake, with southwest jicama slaw and poblano cream
    • The Town & Country McCormick & Schmick's is the first in Houston to have adedicated sushi chef and menu.

    Those expecting the same old seafood when McCormick & Schmick's opens a third Houston location in Town & Country this week will be in for a pleasant surprise.

    "The beauty of McCormick & Schmick's is it's a chef-driven company, and it's always about striving to put the ball in our court," executive chef Bill McKinley says.

    A native of Baton Rouge, McKinley got his culinary start in Houston as one of the first graduates from the Art Institute of Houston after being stationed in Conroe during his military service. After graduating and cooking in the kitchens of master chefs Fritz Gitschner and James Hanizesyki at the Houston Country Club, McKinley spent six years at three McCormick & Schmick's outposts in Maryland.

    "Coming back here is really like coming home to me," McKinley says. "I was in Maryland long enough to be a purist. I learned why people are so passionate about Maryland crab and Chesapeake Bay seafood. But Houston is so diverse and I can really use bolder flavors and spicier foods, and bring some more of that Louisiana flavor in."

    McKinley mentions a passion for anchos and chilies as well as a Philipino-style coconut mole he serves with redfish that he hopes to work into the seasonally-changing menu. He even hints that there may be some elements of molecular gastronomy that show up on the menu from time to time. His varied approach to the menu reflects his background working in every sector of the industry — he's been a butcher, a baker, even a fruit-leather maker.

    "It's all about getting the best ingredients at any time of year," McKinley says. "Right now halibut and wild salmon are thriving, as we move into the summer there will be more lobster, plus fresh vegetables like heirloom tomatoes and plates that fit a summer palate. We've got some great salads that are really light — lots of citrus, no heavy dressing."

    The light and fresh approach is echoed in the design. Gone is the heavy wood paneling that makes up the traditional McCormick & Schmick's look, replaced with contemporary muted neutral palette, spacious banquettes, and a water feature.

    The bar area is certifiably huge, even without including the copper-trellised outdoor patio, complete with lounge seating and a fire pit. And expect it to be utilized: McCormick & Schmick's is offering ultra-competitive happy hour deals ($1.95 bruschetta, $3.95 Kobe beef sliders and Ziegenbock, $4.95 sushi rolls, sangria, and salt & pepper margaritas) both from 4-7 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. to close Monday through Friday.

    McCormick & Schmick's has its grand opening on June14, but will be open for preview this Thursday and Friday. Lunch is on the house, but at dinner the restaurant will be hosting charity benefit dinners. For a suggested donation of $35, guests can join Thursday night to support the Texas Children's Hospital. Friday night proceeds go to the American Red Cross.

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    Know Your Grind

    6 Houston restaurants obsessed with the beef in their burgers

    Brianna McClane
    Oct 8, 2026 | 10:30 am
    Toga restaurant cheeseburger wagyu
    Courtesy of Toga
    Japanese restaurant, Toga, grinds a blend of brisket, chuck, and heart in-house.

    As Americans grow increasingly concerned about where their food comes from, beef sourcing has become part of a larger conversation about quality, safety, and supporting American ranchers.

    The White House's decision to allow 300,000 metric tons of ground beef into the U.S. tariff-free has drawn criticism from groups such as the U.S. Cattlemen’s Association and some Republican lawmakers. The plan aims to lower beef prices as the U.S. cattle herd shrinks, but it has also raised questions about the origins and quality of imported beef.

    As the debate over beef sourcing continues, we chatted with several Houston restaurants about where their beef comes from and what goes into their burgers, from in-house grinding to relationships with local ranchers. While the vast majority of Houston restaurants are using high quality beef that's safe to eat, these establishments are going above and beyond, including by grinding their beef in-house.

    The burger-making process at Eunice starts with butchering. Chef and owner Drake Leonards says the process not only ensures a quality product but also provides a teaching opportunity for the restaurant’s younger chefs.

    “I love a steakhouse burger — a hand-formed, 8-ounce patty packed with rich beef flavor. Butchering in-house allows us to control the beef used from the chuck, brisket, ribeye, and tenderloin,” Leonards tells CultureMap. “The firm fat from the ribeye and brisket helps provide the moisture and balance needed for a juicy beef patty.”

    The team starts with chuck and brisket, carefully trimming away silver skin. The meat then goes into an ice-cold meat grinder with the hard fat from the brisket, along with trim from the butchering of ribeyes and tenderloins, to maintain the 80/20 ratio that Leonards says is essential.

    “Our double-grind method allows the meat and fat to distribute evenly,” Leonards says. “Gently working each patty by hand allows the meat to stay loose and the fat to stay firm, so that it melts into the burger during cooking. The result is a juicy, flavorful steakhouse burger with the texture and richness we’re looking for.”

    The patty is grilled and then finished with house pickles, red onion, American cheese, and dijonnaise, before being served on a toasted brioche bun from Magnol French Baking.

    Not everyone has the team or the space to butcher their own beef for a single patty, but the attention to detail is still evident.

    It would be hard to talk about ground beef in Houston without mentioning Boo’s Burgers. Joseph Boudreaux’s burgers garnered a cult following at pop-ups long before the self-taught chef opened his brick-and-mortar restaurant on the Navigation Esplanade last summer. In-house grinding has been central to Boo’s from the beginning.

    “Our goal at Boo’s is pretty simple: to make the best burger we’re capable of making,” Boudreaux says. “Grinding our beef in-house gives us control over the quality and freshness from the very beginning. We know exactly what’s going into our grind, when it was ground, and how fresh it is when it hits the grill.”

    Boo’s initially sourced its beef from Texas ranch 44 Farms, but growing production needs prompted the restaurant to switch to upper-third USDA Choice beef. The restaurant continues to grind its beef in-house.

    “We’re also exploring ways to incorporate more local ranchers into our program,” Boudreaux adds.

    Eastbound Barbecue already has a direct relationship with a local rancher, sourcing its beef from La Fortaleza, a Texas farm owned by the restaurant’s main investor.

    The hefty half-pound smoked wagyu patty is paired with two slices of brisket, two slices of American cheese, pickles, lime-serrano-cured onion, and a housemade spicy sauce on a toasted Martin’s potato roll.

    At Willow’s Smokehouse and Tavern, brisket goes into the patty itself. The newly-opened East End barbecue joint grinds its brisket trimmings into six-ounce patties, then sears them in tallow. Grilled onions, iceberg lettuce, tomato, house pickles, burger sauce, and two slices of American cheese round out the burger, all sandwiched between a Martin’s potato roll. For $4, diners can add slices of deep fried bacon. In a recent review, Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn hailed Willow's burger as "an instant classic."

    Toga, Comma Hospitality’s latest concept, sources its wagyu from Allen Brothers, a Chicago-based company that has been butchering beef for more than 100 years. The Japanese restaurant grinds a blend of brisket, chuck, and heart in-house for its burger patties. Melted Comté cheese adds richness, while tomato marmalade and frisée bring sweetness and freshness. Everything is tucked into a housemade potato bun.

    Brasserie 19 may serve French cuisine, but it sources a brisket-and-chuck blend for its burger from Red Field Ranch, right down the road in Katy.

    Toga restaurant cheeseburger wagyu

    Courtesy of Toga

    Japanese restaurant, Toga, grinds a blend of brisket, chuck, and heart in-house.

    The restaurant also incorporates trimmings from its filets and ribeyes into the grind, reflecting chef Michael Hoffman’s belief in using as many parts of an ingredient as possible.

    “Early in my career, I worked in a kitchen that had a sign on the wall that said, ‘Utilization is the key to success.’ That has always stuck with me,” Hoffman says. “We’re taking an already great local product and adding another layer of richness and flavor to it. It’s a simple thing, but it makes a big difference in the finished product.”

    The cheeseburger comes on a brioche bun with bibb lettuce, tomato, onion, and housemade pickles.

    “It’s great to work with a local farm like Red Field because they’re close by and we really believe in the quality of what they’re producing,” Hoffman says. “There’s something meaningful about knowing where your beef is coming from and having that relationship with the people raising it.”

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