Those expecting the same old seafood when McCormick & Schmick's opens a third Houston location in Town & Country this week will be in for a pleasant surprise.

"The beauty of McCormick & Schmick's is it's a chef-driven company, and it's always about striving to put the ball in our court," executive chef Bill McKinley says.

A native of Baton Rouge, McKinley got his culinary start in Houston as one of the first graduates from the Art Institute of Houston after being stationed in Conroe during his military service. After graduating and cooking in the kitchens of master chefs Fritz Gitschner and James Hanizesyki at the Houston Country Club, McKinley spent six years at three McCormick & Schmick's outposts in Maryland.

"Coming back here is really like coming home to me," McKinley says. "I was in Maryland long enough to be a purist. I learned why people are so passionate about Maryland crab and Chesapeake Bay seafood. But Houston is so diverse and I can really use bolder flavors and spicier foods, and bring some more of that Louisiana flavor in."

McKinley mentions a passion for anchos and chilies as well as a Philipino-style coconut mole he serves with redfish that he hopes to work into the seasonally-changing menu. He even hints that there may be some elements of molecular gastronomy that show up on the menu from time to time. His varied approach to the menu reflects his background working in every sector of the industry — he's been a butcher, a baker, even a fruit-leather maker.

"It's all about getting the best ingredients at any time of year," McKinley says. "Right now halibut and wild salmon are thriving, as we move into the summer there will be more lobster, plus fresh vegetables like heirloom tomatoes and plates that fit a summer palate. We've got some great salads that are really light — lots of citrus, no heavy dressing."

The light and fresh approach is echoed in the design. Gone is the heavy wood paneling that makes up the traditional McCormick & Schmick's look, replaced with contemporary muted neutral palette, spacious banquettes, and a water feature.

The bar area is certifiably huge, even without including the copper-trellised outdoor patio, complete with lounge seating and a fire pit. And expect it to be utilized: McCormick & Schmick's is offering ultra-competitive happy hour deals ($1.95 bruschetta, $3.95 Kobe beef sliders and Ziegenbock, $4.95 sushi rolls, sangria, and salt & pepper margaritas) both from 4-7 p.m. and 9:30 p.m. to close Monday through Friday.

McCormick & Schmick's has its grand opening on June14, but will be open for preview this Thursday and Friday. Lunch is on the house, but at dinner the restaurant will be hosting charity benefit dinners. For a suggested donation of $35, guests can join Thursday night to support the Texas Children's Hospital. Friday night proceeds go to the American Red Cross.