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    Hometown Glory

    A Houston bar stands up to New York and Los Angeles' best in national awards — thanks to a star bartender

    Eric Sandler
    May 28, 2014 | 11:50 am

    Anvil Bar & Refuge has earned two semi-finalist nominations in the Eighth Annual Spirited Awards, which recognize ""the year’s best bars, bartenders, writers, experts and more." The bar itself is in the running for Best American Cocktail Bar honors, and co-owner Bobby Heugel picked up a nomination for American Bartender of the year.

    Both Heugel and Anvil are the only Texas nominees in their respective categories, which are heavy on big names from the East and West Coast. Other names Houstonians might recognize are Austin's Half Step, which picked up a nomination for Best New American Cocktail Bar, and Los Angeles' Harvard & Stone, where Houston native Yael Vengroff landed after her stints at Grand Prize, Mongoose versus Cobra, etc . . .

    A panel of judges selected the 10 nominees in each category who will be cut down to four finalists next month ahead of the awards ceremony at the Tales of the Cocktail convention in New Orleans. Although this year is Heugel's first as an individual nominee, Anvil has made the final four each of the past two years. Is 2014 the year it joins fellow Clumsy Butcher concept Underbelly in taking home a national award?

    "I don’t really know how to measure what Anvil does nationally. When we opened Anvil, we were really just trying to serve cocktails to Houstonians."

    "Do I think we’ll win? I have no idea," Heugel, fresh off an "inspiring" visit to Mexico, tells CultureMap. "I don’t really know how to measure what Anvil does nationally. When we opened Anvil, we were really just trying to serve cocktails to Houstonians.

    "I don’t think anything’s changed about that. I don’t know how you compare Anvil to cocktail bars in New York or anywhere else."

    Yet, Heugel says he's flattered by the recognition. "It’s an award that’s determined by our peers and people we really respect. People who represent the best of cocktails across the country."

    As for his individual nomination, Heugel attributes it to the amount of time that he's spent tending bar this year. "I’ve averaged 40 hours a week or more behind the bar (this year), he says. "I really love bartending. With all the things we’ve done in the past five years, it’s been hard to do that . . . I always want to serve people drinks. I’ve really enjoyed that about the last year."

    Still, Heugel has another suggestion for a more deserving Houston bartender. "In my opinion the best bartender in the country is Alba (Huerta). She is so much better at bartending than I am," he says. "If I could switch my name out for hers on the list, I’d do it in a heartbeat."

    Huerta and Heugel have been so busy thanks to The Pastry War, the downtown agave bar that Esquire magazine picked as one of 2014's best bars. The combination of margaritas, tamales and Day of the Dead decor has helped fuel the growth along the 300 block of Main Street.

    Perhaps the upcoming opening of Julep will raise Huerta's profile to the point she earns similar national recognition.

    "I’m really exciting about Julep being a platform for everyone involved," Heugel says. "Being able to build a bar to match who she is as a person is really exciting. I’m just happy we got to do that."

    Anvil is now a three-time semifinalist for a Spirited Award.

    News_Anvil Bar and Refuge, exterior, patio
    Photo by Julie Soefer Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    Anvil is now a three-time semifinalist for a Spirited Award.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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