Foodie News

Saying goodbye to Catalan: Chef Chris Shepherd gets a champagne bath, leaveshappy foie gras memories

Catalan's cotton candy made us oh-so-happy.
Photo by Sarah Rufca
Chris Shepherd has retired his Catalan whites.
Photo by © Michelle Watson/CatchlightGroup.com
Catalan will continue onto till June without Shepherd and then change concepts.

It was the end of an era on Saturday night at Catalan, with executive chef Chris Shepherd in the kitchen for his last full service at the restaurant.

Catalan lives on until June, of course, in the able hands of sous chef Antoine Ware, but I couldn't resist one last meal from the chef who introduced me to what Houston dining could be.

I came back to Houston in the fall of 2007 slightly flustered after a shorter-than-expected career in New York. For my first big dinner back in town, my friends brought me to Catalan, which had opened in my absence.

I don't remember much about it until I was instructed to eat the foie gras bon bon in front of me all at once, and the pure joy of the warm blueberry compote filling my mouth in a sweet interplay with the foie gras. Would it not have led to blue mush all over my face, I would have broken out into an open-mouthed smile.

I have ordered the fois gras bon bons on every trip ever since, and I'm always happy with them, though they'll never be quite the same as the first, with that sense of surprise.

Like most twentysomethings trying to stretch out a budget (and unwilling to pass on the wine), I went years without eating a Catalan entree, instead splitting small plate after small plate to my heart's content. The Berkshire pork belly that became synonymous with Shepherd were an early fave, as were the mussels. Actually, when it comes to the mussels, I don't dislike them, but they are ordered primarily for the purpose of dipping bread into the delicious, mussel-y butter sauce.

Say what you will about Catalan's incomparable Juicy Lucy burger or the Colorado lamb chops, but I have never been as happy as when I skipped all that and just ordered the entirety of the street food menu. Also servers look at you impressed when you do that.

On Saturday, we were seduced by the appetizers once again, ordering the off-menu gnocchi with fish cheeks and the on-menu bruschetta. Even bruschetta at Catalan is taken to the next level by adding a layer of bacon to the mix. Sometimes the bacon proliferation around town is overkill, but at Catalan, whether it's in the bruschetta or the goat cheese grits, it's always in proportion, accenting but not overpowering the dish.

It's no exaggeration to say I love it all.

As the night dwindled to a close, Shepherd was greeted in the back by a champagne bath and emerged sans kitchen whites and slightly sticky. I asked him how he'd spend his nights for the next few months.

"I don't know, probably annoying my wife," he responded.

Like everyone else in town, I can't wait to see what Shepherd does with his own place Underbelly, and I'm excited to watch the Clark/Cooper brand evolve starting Wednesday at Brasserie 19 and at Coppa in the Catalan space later this summer.

But I will always cherish my memories at Catalan.

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Play it again, Houston, at this new hotspot

Houston's new piano bar hits a high note with 2-story patio & martinis

A man plays the piano while a cocktail sits next to him

Photo by Rebecca Wright

The Kennedy in the Montrose/River Oaks area recently opened its doors to those who love live music, libations, and refined entrees.

The Kennedy, a new restaurant and piano bar, aims to strike a harmonious blend of classic elegance and modern sophistication as it opens at 3210 W Dallas St., near the intersection of West Dallas Street and Waugh Drive.

Former frequenters of Muse and Emmaline will recognize The Kennedy’s location that sits where Montrose and River Oaks begin to blend. The more than 7,000-square-foot space has been transformed into an intimate retreat through a rich, moody color palette, dark wood paneling, and cozy seating vignettes.

A large, indoor bar is a focal point, while tall ceilings and expansive industrial windows lend a contemporary edge to the timeless design. Nearly 40 pieces of art — including original, classical, and contemporary works sourced from local galleries — adorn the walls, creating a space that’s as visually captivating as it is welcoming. With cooler temperatures finally on the horizon, Houstonians can enjoy the weather on The Kennedy’s two-story, amply-shaded patios.

“Bringing The Kennedy to life has been a labor of love over the last year, and I’m excited to share our warm and cozy restaurant and piano bar with our guests,” owner Andres Castro said in a statement. “We’ve gathered an incredible team of industry veterans that have made The Kennedy a world-class, day-to-late night destination that feels like an energetic extension of your home.”

Music is woven into the experience, with live performances by vocalists, pianists, and DJs on the menu. A baby grand piano serves as the heart of the entertainment, and a dual-sided fireplace doubles as a DJ booth, creating a vibrant late-night lounge ambiance.

Open Tuesday through Sunday, The Kennedy serves lunch on Fridays, and brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Executive chef Adriana Maldonado, who honed her skills in New York City at spots like Javelina and Olives, brings her expertise to the kitchen. The menu, crafted in collaboration with Carniceria Prime Meat Market, features premium dishes such as a prime wagyu ribeye with romesco and chimichurri ($32) and a delicate wagyu ribeye tartare ($21). Elevated plates include truffle white wine lobster spaghetti ($30) with vodka sauce and yellow heirloom tomatoes, along with a playful twist on the mozzarella stick, coated in potato chips and topped with crème fraîche and caviar ($24).

The bar menu, with an extensive selection of handcrafted cocktails and mocktails, an impressive martini list, and international wines and champagnes, has something for every taste. Highlights include the mango ember ($16), a mezcal-based drink with mango purée, and the clarified millionaire margarita ($26) with Patron Cielo. Martini lovers can enjoy choices like the lychee martini ($16) and the soprano negroni with orange Campari foam ($18).

Casual attire is welcome during the day, but “Sunset Attire” is requested after 6 pm, encouraging visitors to dress up for the evening in keeping with the venue’s upscale vibe.

Photo by Rebecca Wright

The Kennedy in the Montrose/River Oaks area recently opened its doors to those who love live music, libations, and refined entrees.

“The Kennedy merges the sophistication and elegance of River Oaks with the energy and artistry of Montrose and delivers a one-of-a-kind experience,” Castro said.

This is the first concept of Castro’s newly-formed Ninety3 Hospitality Group. Castro has 12 years of hospitality experience, including time at nightclubs such as Spire and Clé, and six years in private aviation.