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    New Restaurant Brings Patio Power

    New Midtown restaurant wants to get lucky in its 1940s digs: An inside look at Eleven XI

    Marcy de Luna
    Marcy de Luna
    May 1, 2013 | 11:19 am

    What's the significance of the name of the new Houston restaurant Eleven XI? Superstition says that a wish made at lucky 11:11, also known as the wishing hour, will come true.

     

    Optimistic about the wish for a successful restaurant is a trio of operators: Joe Welborn, an alumni of Soma Sushi, Uptown Sushi and The Rockwood Room; Joe Hausner formerly of Eddie V’s CityCentre; and Tony’s trained chef Kevin Bryant, most recently of L’Olivier.
     
     Eleven XI Restaurant & Bar — set to open May 7 — is located at 607 W. Gray just across from Cecil’s Tavern and adjacent to booming Midtown businesses and nightlife. The 1940s era, two-story, free standing building formerly housed Bibas Diner.

     

    After an extensive sprucing-up, the exterior has been washed clean of its former white and blue color scheme to allow for a neutral palette of earth tones. As a result, the original brickwork stands out more than it did before.

     
     

      "We put the same passion and effort into our cocktail program as we do our kitchen." 

     
     

    On the West Gray side of the venue is a spacious, raised outdoor patio with plenty of lounge and picnic table furniture. Walk through a barrel-vaulted brick vestibule as you enter the intimate dining room with gold and wine hues, and seating for 42.
     
    Straight ahead is a 12-person chef’s table made from two butcher blocks, thus they're divisible, and a semi-open kitchen. There's a quaint waiting area with a fireplace is to the left and to the right, a separate room with a cocktail and raw bar embellished by brick framed windows, a chalk menu wall and a sloped, timbered ceiling.

     

    Wrapped by an additional patio, the second floor area — complete with a slate-topped bar, climate-controlled wine room and humidor — is as a space for events, meetings and private dining.

     

     THE FOOD

     

    Eleven XI will serve Southern coastal cuisine. Chef Bryant’s evolving menu will feature 20 to 25 daily items, including 11 entrees and several house made desserts.

     

    Perhaps it's no coincidence that the menu is split into seven categories (another lucky number): "Entrees", "Over Ice”, “Bites", "Little Bit of Everything", "The Lighter Side", "Don’t Be Shy to Order First" and "Sides."

     
     

      The Cherry Limeade Cocktail conjures up memories of a Sonic Cherry Limeade, only with a kick. 

     
     

    Entrees provide a range of fare from seafood to pork and from beef to bird. While the menu will see up to five seasonal revisions per year, signature dishes apt to stay in the rotation include Texas Quail seared and served with leafy greens and comforting, smoked Gouda grits; Citrus Tea Brined Wild Game Hen, oven roasted or whole fried, with fries; and Apricot Flounder, a whole crispy, apricot-glazed fish.

     

    "Over Ice" is an assortment of cold seafood items like oysters and King Crab legs. The West Coast Crab Cake and Hudson Valley Duck with seasonal fruit compote are two of the savory dishes on the "Bites" menu.

     

    Can’t decide what to order? "Little Bit of Everything" presents diners with menu tastings of five, seven or nine courses (beverage pairings available). "The Lighter Side" has salad offerings, and broccoli coleslaw, risotto and creamy whipped potatoes are a few of the “Side” selections.

     

    "Don’t be Shy to Order First" equates to the dessert menu. Want a summer treat? There are more than 28 flavors of homemade ice cream and sorbet. There's also a variety of desserts prepared by Bryant, who got his start in pastries.

     

     THE DRINKS

     

    The drink menu boasts 30 wines by the glass, 50 plus beers, a build-your-own Manhattan option that incorporates 10 vermouths and an array of more than 30 types of bitters, and a vast cocktail list made up of both classics and new takes.
     
    "We put the same passion and effort into our cocktail program as we do our kitchen," Welbon says.

     

    Indeed, it's a pleasure to try Welborn's well-thought-out cocktail recipes as he's careful to balance flavors — no cocktail is saccharinely.
     
    The Cherry Limeade Cocktail conjures up memories of a Sonic Cherry Limeade, only with a kick. This molecular drink (the practice of mixing drinks using popular techniques of molecular mixology: foams, liquid nitrogen, gels, mists, heat, solidifying liquids, etc . . .) owes its deep cherry flavor to its main ingredient, Grey Goose Cherry Noir Flavored Vodka cultivated from black cherries.

     

    And then there’s the Fig Cream Cookie Cocktail. Welborn’s love of Fig Newtons inspired the recipe for this liquid creation, two years in the making. An instant favorite upon first sip, the taste of sweet vanilla is offset by the slightly bitter taste of coffee and the cream soda helps keep this buttery concoction from being overly rich.

     

    The recipe for the Fig Cream Cookie Cocktail is below. Although time consuming, it yields enough to fill 18 martini glasses with the luscious libation.

     

     FIG CREAM COOKIE COCKTAIL RECIPE

     

    4 oz dried or dehydrated black mission figs (available at Central Market)
    2 tbsp unsalted butter
    10 Guatemalan Katz coffee beans (or any other fresh medium roast coffee beans)
    1 pod Tahitian vanilla (any variety of vanilla at your local grocery will suffice)
    2 tbsp caramel sauce
    1 bottle (750 ML) Hayman's Old Tom Gin (available at Spec's or Houston Wine Merchant)
    1 cup short bread cookie crumbs
    1 tspn Himalayan Sea Salt
    1.5 oz Dublin Soda Works Pure Cane Vanilla Cream Soda (A&W Root Beer will work as well, or your favorite cream soda)

     

    In a saute pan, brown butter. Using a knife, split vanilla pod in half, scrape out vanilla and add to pan and saute on low for 10 minutes. Add figs, stemmed and cut in half, to pan and saute for an additional 10 minutes. Remove vanilla and coffee beans from saute pan leaving the liquid and figs. Place butter poached vanilla pod and coffee beans in a one liter zip top bag. Add 4 more oz of dehydrated figs to this bag and a bottle of Hayman's Old Tom Gin.
     
    Lower the bag into a large vat of warm water (leaving a small opening at the top) until all or most of the air has been removed, then close the bag. For the next step you will need an immersion circulator or a stock pot and thermometer. Gently cook the bag at 125 degrees for two hours. After cooking refrigerate overnight. The result is your finished gin product.
     
    Next, the butter poached figs and caramel go into a blender with 2 tbsp of the finished gin. Puree into a sauce.
     
    To assemble the cocktail, pour 1.5 oz of the infused gin into a shaker with one bar spoon of the puree and the cream soda. Shake vigorously and serve up.
     
    For the rim, combine crushed shortbread cookies and Himalayan Sea Salt. Dip the glass in simple syrup (equal parts sugar and water) and then in the salty cookie goodness, and you're ready for a party.

     

    The raised first floor, front patio, complete with Wi-Fi, TVs, fans, lounge furniture, and picnic tables

    Eleven XI bar Houston April 2013 diners patio
      
    Photo courtesy of MP Photography
    The raised first floor, front patio, complete with Wi-Fi, TVs, fans, lounge furniture, and picnic tables
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    roll out

    Self-taught chef slices into Houston with high-quality sushi to go

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 17, 2025 | 5:57 pm
    Kaisen Sushi Houston nigiri
    Courtesy of Kaisen Sushi Houston
    Each order of nigiri comes with a house made sushi sauce.

    The ghost kitchen phenomenon may have diminished somewhat since the early days of the Covid-19 pandemic, but the idea of a delivery and to-go-only restaurant still draws talented chefs who want to focus on food at a lower overhead than a traditional brick-and-mortar. One of those chefs is Sunny Bertsch, whose restaurant Kaisen Sushi Houston is already drawing buzz from inner loopers looking for a more affordable, at-home sushi experience.

    Located at the Blodgett Food Hall in Third Ward, Kaisen Sushi serves typical nigiri, maki, and temaki (hand rolls), along with a steak bowl. Prices are a little lower than what someone would find at a typical sushi restaurant, with an eight-piece nigiri set priced at $18.99 when ordered through the Blodgett Food Hall website (expect to pay more if ordering via a third-party delivery service such as Uber Eats or DoorDash).

    While Bertsch’s food may be familiar, his story is not. The diners who’ve rated Kaisen with 4.9 stars on Google may be surprised to learn that he’s only been cooking professionally for two years. As Bertsch tells CultureMap, prior to becoming a professional chef, he worked in fields as varied as aerospace and dog walking.

    “I’d always been interested in cooking,” he says. “I was blessed to be born into a great Korean American family. My dad and my grandparents always cooked great food. I learned by osmosis.”

    Bertsch began his career as a private chef by working for friends. He built his business by catering lunches to powerhouse law firm Vinson & Elkins. Eventually, his clients asked for private sushi dinners, and he had to figure things out.

    “I got an opportunity to do a sushi omakase. It was brutal. It was messy. But I knew once I did that, I wanted to dedicate my life to sushi,” he says. “Since then, I have studied and practiced. I threw a lot of money and time and fish at it.”

    Bertsch improved his speed and knife skills by taking a $13-per-hour job at Japanese grocery store Seiwa Market. While there, he says he made thousands of pieces of nigiri, rolls, and sushi bowls. That experience, along with meals from similar to-go-only concepts in New York and San Francisco, convinced him to open Kaisen as a ghost kitchen.

    “So far, I’ve spent $90,000. That’s more than the average investment for a food hall kitchen,” Bertsch explains. “I’m a clean freak. I’m a technology freak. I’m an authenticity freak. I outfitted my kitchen in the way I thought was necessary for long-term success.”

    Just as he spared no expense in specing out his kitchen, Bertsch puts thoughtful touches into his food, too. For example, every order of nigiri comes with a dipping sauce Bertsch makes himself from low sodium soy sauce, kombu, vinegar, and sake.

    “It’s a complex sauce that’s less salty and tastes good,” he says. “You know when you don’t have it and you’re given cheap soy sauce.”

    Similarly, his California rolls use imitation crab (as do most restaurants), but it’s seasoned with a housemade, Japanese-style kewpie mayo, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and sesame oil for more umami and less sweetness. Since the chef uses more crab mix than other restaurants do in their rolls, Kaisen’s California roll not only tastes better — at $11.99, it’s a better value, too.

    The chef showcases Japanese techniques and Korean influences with his $25 steak bowl. A USDA Choice ribeye or strip is cooked sous vide with a marinade made from garlic, tamari, and seasoning salt. Once a diner orders the entree, the steak is seared in a pan, basted with Kerrygold butter, seasoned with furikake and sesame oil, and served with short-grain sushi rice and microgreens from local farm Zero Point Organics.

    Word of mouth has been building. Even though it’s only been open for a month, Kaisen already has over 2,000 followers on Instagram. Once he’s able to hire a full roster of cooks, Bertsch plans to expand the menu and offer lunch service. Despite some challenges, he’s pleased with the restaurant’s progress.

    “The support I've gotten on social media has blown me away,” he says. “It’s been amazing. I could not have done it without Instagram. It blows my mind.”

    Kaisen Sushi Houston nigiri
      

    Courtesy of Kaisen Sushi Houston

    Each order of nigiri comes with a house made sushi sauce.

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