Foodie News
Sneak peek: Justin Yu’s Oxheart unveils a new kind of artistry
The much anticipated Oxheart opened this weekend for preview dinners, offering Houston diners a new form of culinary artistry.
Let’s call it Oxheartistry.
Oxheartistry is the attention to detail that the managing triumvirate of executive chef/owner Justin Yu, pastry chef/owner Karen Man and sommelier/general manager Justin Vann has given to every aspect of the place.
Oxheartistry is the attention to detail that the managing triumvirate of executive chef/owner Justin Yu, pastry chef/owner Karen Man and sommelier/general manager Justin Vann has given to every aspect of the place.
There’s the culinary catwalk of a countertop made from century-old reclaimed pine. And the industrial lighting, both striking and functional, that gives generously without overwhelming. Stunning earthenware, designed and made locally. And a diverse selection of vessels and creamers, sourced from Yu’s own mom’s collection. Even the bathrooms bear the unique stamp of a local graffiti artist.
But beyond all this, of course, is the food. Oxheart offers just three choices for your meal: A four-course menu of meats and vegetables, a four-course garden offering, and a seven-course tasting menu encompassing the chef’s favorites.
Yu’s previous Houston experiences have given us a glimpse of his style, gleaned from working in kitchens across the country and around the world, and while the opening night’s service wasn’t without flaw, it’s clear that this young chef has the ideas — and skills — to blow us away.
Full disclosure: I have a small financial stake in the restaurant, but Saturday’s preview dinner experience truly showcased why I chose to invest in the first place. It was the kind of space, place, and taste that linger well after the meal has ended — creative flavors, clever intertwining of textures, and everything with a local connection.
Yu answered my rapid-fire questions about the source of each ingredient with ease, Man presented and sold each dish with flair and Vann roamed the dining room offering pours and relative sophistication. But no need to take my word for it. Peruse the photos to see for yourself — artistry and Oxheartistry in the form of carrots, egg yolks, Gulf oysters, and oxtails; broccoli, sea snails, spinach, and bread.
Oxheart officially opens on Thursday. They’ll begin taking reservations by phone on Tuesday (March 13) at noon. Reservations will be available up to two weeks in advance.