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    Getting the band back together

    Rising star chef takes his barbecue talent to hot new Southern restaurant in the Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 10, 2015 | 10:21 am

    Southern Goods, the new restaurant from former Underbelly sous chef Lyle Bento and former Cottonwood/Liberty Station partner Charles Bishop, finally has its city-approved construction permits in hand. As the partners prep for a mid-April opening — Bishop wants to celebrate his April 17th birthday there — Bento has begun hiring the people who will help realize his vision for the restaurant's pan-Southern menu.

    Towards that end, Bento has tapped another former Underbelly cook Patrick Feges to serve as his sous chef.

    "I tried to do it on my own and realized I had no idea what the hell I was doing," Feges says. "....Obviously, Charles knows what the hell he’s doing."

    Feges left Underbelly last year to work as a pitmaster and chef at Killen's Barbecue, but he tells CultureMap he's looking forward to getting back onto a line and refining his own style of barbecue. He'll leave Killen's at the end of March to join Bento full time.

    Feges acknowledges that his original plan was to open his own barbecue joint after leaving Killen's, but he couldn't come to terms with a landlord on a potential space. "I tried to do it on my own and realized I had no idea what the hell I was doing," Feges says. "I teamed up with these guys. Obviously, Charles knows what the hell he’s doing."

    Bishop and Bento have offered to help Feges realize his dream of having his own place, but, for now, the trio are focused on Southern Goods.

    For Bento, bringing Feges on after their time at Underbelly was a natural fit. "The main thing is I trust him. I’ve seen the way he handles himself in the kitchen, and I see the way he wants to do the right thing. You don’t have to micromanage him."

    Feges also supplements Bento's skills with a smoke element that the chef admits isn't part of skill set. "I don’t smoke stuff, but I wanted to have a barbecue aspect. Having him come on board, that’s just the perfect match," Bento says. "He complements me in a lot of spots that I’m not as good in, and I think I complement him in spots that he’s not as good in. That’s what builds a really good team."

    Smoker on weekends

    Bishop notes that traditional barbecue, whether inspired by Texas or other regions of the South, won't be on the every day menu, but Feges will bust out the smoker on weekends and for events. Beyond central Texas-style smoked brisket, Bento and Feges plan to use smoke elements in non-traditional ways. "We were talking about foie the other day. Adding that layer of flavor to things that I might not think of because I’m not a big smoke guy," Bento says.

    As for the rest of the menu, Bento says it will sample broadly from Southern traditions old and new. Vietnamese-Cajun mashups could exist next to Tex-Mex or Mississippi-style tamales. The restaurant has also secured a club license to allow it to serve liquor in the dry part of the Heights.

    As for the rest of the menu, Bento says it will sample broadly from Southern traditions old and new. Vietnamese-Cajun mashups could exist next to Tex-Mex or Mississippi-style tamales.

    The chef prepared for Southern Goods' approach by traveling to celebrated restaurants throughout the South like Husk in Charleston and Hogs & Hominy in Memphis. "You look at what’s going on in the South right now. It’s so broad. It’s so fun. It’s one of the main reasons I wanted to do Southern Goods," Bento says.

    "The menu will move when it needs to move," he adds later. "We’re going to have a few set things. We’ll always have a burger. We’ll do seasonal . . . but we really want to show different ingredients from across the South."

    While Southern Goods may be more static than Underbelly's constantly evolving offerings, Feges notes that he and Bento are still capable of surprising people. "We might do some crazy stuff here and there, because there’s no one to tell Lyle no," he says with a laugh.

    Already, Bento is using his newly acquired food truck for Ladybirds, the bar he and Bishop serve as operating partners for, to test dishes like a bone-in chicken fried steak. "It's a great option we have," Bishop says, without getting too specific about how closely the dishes served on the truck will resemble their final versions at Southern Goods.

    "My vision for the food is comfortable food that people can come eat every day, but if you have a special event and you want to come eat, (then) come," Bento says.

    "It’s just going to be fun food."

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    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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