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    exit, stage right

    Houston wine guru abruptly leaves major local restaurant group

    Eric Sandler
    Mar 4, 2020 | 4:15 pm
    David Keck Goodnight Hospitality
    David Keck has resigned from Goodnight Hospitality.
    Photo by Julie Soefer

    In the world of Houston restaurants, few developments qualify as truly shocking. After all, even the most storied restaurants can close, and prominent chefs can depart for new opportunities. Still, unexpected developments have the power to surprise even the most jaded observer.

    The March 4 announcement from Goodnight Hospitality ranks among those surprises. Master sommelier David Keck has resigned his partnership with the Montrose-based restaurant group and will be moving back to his home state of Vermont. Keck issued the following statement through a representative:

    “I’m excited to get my hands in the dirt and work on a different side of the beverage business while continuing my own studies. I couldn’t be more proud of the Goodnight Hospitality endeavor, and am very excited for the next steps for both of us. I’m also so impressed with how the sommelier community has grown—and continues to grow—in Houston, and hope to continue that spirit of education and hospitality in a new city.”

    Keck has been a prominent presence in Houston's culinary scene for almost a decade. After working at Stella Sola and Uchi, the former professional opera singer turned sommelier opened Camerata with business partner Paul Petronella in 2013. While there, he became Houston's second master sommelier in 2016. He founded Goodnight Hospitality with local businessman Peter McCarthy in 2017, eventually recruiting chef Felipe Riccio and fellow master sommelier June Rodil to join the company.

    "We wish David the best with his ventures in Vermont,” McCarthy said in a statement. “He’s been part of the Goodnight Hospitality team since day one, and we’re grateful for all the contributions he made as we built this company."

    Riccio and Rodil remain partners in Goodnight with owners Peter and Bailey McCarthy. They'll continue to operate Rosie Cannonball and Montrose Cheese & Wine. In April, the company will open March, an intimate tasting menu restaurant that will be a showcase for Riccio.

    The future is less certain for Goodnight Charlie's. The group states that the Montrose honky tonk was a "passion project" for Keck and that they're "evaluating the best way to move forward" with the bar and dance hall. A representative declined to elaborate on whether that evaluation might result in Goodnight Charlie's closing or changing its concept.

    Part of what make today's announcement so surprising is that Keck has long-standing personal relationships with his partners. Keck and Riccio worked together at Camerata; Rodil and Keck had been friends for almost a decade before she joined Goodnight last year.

    Keck's departure is only the latest turnover at Goodnight Hospitality. Rosie Cannonball's opening chef de cuisine, Adam Garcia, and opening bar manager, Stuart Humphries, are no longer with the company. Sommelier Ryan Cooper quietly left Montrose Cheese & Wine in January. The company's recent personnel additions include advance sommelier Mark Sayre, who will be March's general manager and beverage director, and veteran bartender Alex Negranza (Anvil, Better Luck Tomorrow), who will be March's bar manager.

    news-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

    say hey to Hypsi

    Houston chef's hip new Italian restaurant now open in Heights hotel

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 4, 2025 | 5:05 pm
    Hypsi restaurant food spread
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

    A new Italian restaurant is now open in the Heights. Located within the newly opened Hotel Daphne, Hypsi marks chef Terrence Gallivan’s return to professional cooking in Houston.

    Known for his time as the co-execuive chef of The Pass and Provisions and owner of ElRo Pizza and Crudo, Gallivan brings strong culinary credentials to Hypsi. Although he isn’t known explicitly for Italian fare, he has significant experience making pizza, pasts, and other Italian-inspired dishes. After closing ElRo last year, the chef says that working for Bunkhouse Hotels, the Austin-based company that operates the Daphne, had a lot of appeal.

    “My wife and I always made it a point to stop at their places whenever we’re in Austin. They know how to make cool stuff,” Gallivan says.

    Hypsi’s menu includes updated takes on Italian fare begins with starters such as lamb meatballs, black truffle arancini, and Caesar salad. A selection of house-made pastas include squid ink radiatori with rock shrimp, butternut squash tortellini, and lumache with vodka sauce that gets a little heat from nduja. Entree choices include a roast chicken, pork Milanese, and roasted snapper with salsa verde.

    The restaurant is also open for breakfast during the week and brunch on the weekends with items such as a panatone waffle, frittata, and breakfast sandwich. Lunch will follow in January.

    “We took inspiration from tradition without being traditional,” Gallivan says. Later, he adds, “For me, it’s about balance. You try to please everybody. I want my mom to enjoy herself as much as a 25-year-old foodie. It’s important to hit as many marks as you can.”

    One of the restaurant’s signatures will be the mozzarella cart that rolls through its dining room. Gallivan says he’s sourcing a mix of both American and imported Italian cheeses that will rotate every week or two. The cheese is served with a range of pickled fruit and vegetables, olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, focaccia, and more. Of course, seeing a cart immediately grabs diners’ attention, making them want whatever is on offer.

    “That’s the beauty of carts,” Gallivan says. “It’s a fun thing to do. I think sometimes we get a little too serious in restaurants. It’s supposed to be fun. People are here to enjoy themselves.”

    All that eating and drinking takes place in a dining room that’s inspired by Prohibition-era speakeasies, according to press materials. Details include blueberry lava stone on the bar, vintage velvet chairs, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti. An outdoor patio features brick pavers, mosaic tables, and sculptures.

    Hypsi restaurant food spread

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hypsi serves pasta and other Itaian-inspired dishes.

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    news/restaurants-bars

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