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    Food for Thought

    '80s redux: Will the drop in the price of oil hurt — or help — Houston restaurants?

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Jan 12, 2015 | 11:47 am

    Steve Zimmerman, owner of La Colombe d’Or, the fabulous historic boutique hotel and classic restaurant now known as Cinq, made national headlines during the 1980s oil bust by offering an executive lunch for the day’s price of oil.

    “We were actually just thinking about bringing it back,” laughs Zimmerman. “If the oil prices drop into the $40 range per barrel maybe we’ll do an Oil Barrel Special, a three-course dinner for the price of oil.”

    While the rest of the nation may be rejoicing at low prices at the pump, Houston businesses, including restaurants, are keeping a wary eye on the dropping price of oil, currently selling at about half of its highest price in 2014. Houston is not nearly as dependent on the oil business now as it was in the '80s, but a worldwide oil glut can still send ripples through the local economy.

    “If the oil prices drop into the $40 range per barrel maybe we’ll do an Oil Barrel Special, a three-course dinner for the price of oil," says Zimmerman.

    And another veteran restaurateur sees problems ahead, although not nearly on the '80s level.

    “If the price of oil stays this low,” he says, “it will affect all of us.

    “Maybe the couple that normally order a $100 bottle of wine at dinner will start to order a $35 bottle,” he says. “And maybe there won’t be as many businessmen wining and dining clients for dinner.”

    A lot of Cinq’s customers are wheelers and dealers in the energy business, and Zimmerman says they tell him the current situation is less crash and more a hiccup. Still everyone seems to be in a wait and see mode.

    “I think everyone’s been thinking about it,” says Shepard Ross, who currently has three restaurants and a fourth on the way. “We haven’t seen any difference yet in sales at Glass Wall or Brooklyn Athletic Club and Pax Americana is so new it’s hard to tell. But if oil prices stay low it will affect the local economy, and the first thing we’ll start to see are lower wine sales. But our concepts are very neighborhood focused, I’d be more worried if we were a big steakhouse dependent on expense accounts.”

    Silver linings

    Ross and his partners are still going ahead with The Del, their latest concept, and Ross actually thinks those looking to start a restaurant may find a down energy economy offers lower land prices and leases.

    And chef/owner Lynette Hawkins is hoping it might actually help business as Giacomo’s cibo e vino.

    "If they aren’t paying as much for gas they have more disposable income and maybe instead of dining here once a week they’ll come twice a week," says Hawkins.

    “We’re a casual Italian concept and wine bar with pretty reasonable prices,” she says. “Most of our customers are regulars from the neighborhood. If they aren’t paying as much for gas they have more disposable income and maybe instead of dining here once a week they’ll come twice a week.”

    She’s also hopeful that her suppliers will drop or at least reduce the fuel surcharge, although she hasn’t seen that yet.

    “Restaurants in Houston are a very competitive market,” Ross says. “But eating out has become such a part of our lifestyle I think people will keep doing it, but they may spend less. I think the higher end places may feel it more than local concepts with more flexible menu prices.

    “There are so many places that offer good food, but the ones that survive will be the ones that also offer good hospitality. If you have less money to spend on dining out you’re more likely to go to the places that know you and treat you well. Places that know your name and what table you like to sit at. Those places will survive.”

    Insiders say one indication that restaurants are starting to feel the pinch of a slower economy could be a benefit for diners: you might start seeing a lot more coupons and dining specials pop up in your emails.

    -----------------------

    UPDATE: Late Monday afternoon, as oil fell to less than $46 a barrel, Zimmerman said he would revive the Oil Barrel Special, starting Wednesday (Jan. 14).

    La Colombe d'Or made national headlines during the 1980s oil bust by offering an executive lunch for the day’s price of oil. Now the restaurant is named Cinq.

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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