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    Shop 'til you drop

    Northern Tuscany's Forte dei Marmi offers designer label shopping & grandbeaches

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    Aug 12, 2012 | 12:00 pm
    • The Prada store in Forte dei Marmi is one of only two in the company that printsthe town name on the bags.
      Photo by Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    • Shopping in Forte dei Marmi in Italy's northern Tuscany region is rich andcolorful.
      WeLoveVersilia.it
    • We love the Audrey Hepburn Birkin-style bag found in the beach resort popularwith wealthy Italians.
      Photo by Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    • Love the neon Birkin-style bag from the market where the price is right and theknock-offs are perfection.
      Photo by Donae Cangelosi Chramosta
    • Bright and bold neon colors attract shoppers to Morini where chic items areoffered at reasonable prices.
      Photo by Donae Cangelosi Chramosta

    FORTE DEI MARMI, Italy — This charming enclave in northern Tuscany initially drew tourists for its pristene beaches and, in fact, was one of Italy's first beach resorts, luring wealthy Italians who settled in expansive villas nestled in the mountain pines. Over the years, the village has evolved into a popular summer playground where high-style shopping leads the extracurricula agenda.

    I started coming to Forte dei Marmi with my father in the 1990s. It was a logical destination for the family business — Cangelosi, a luxury provider of marble, granite and limestone products. It didn't take me long to fall in love with this lazy yet energetic, casual yet luxurious beachside town with beautiful people, amazing architecture and Italian vintage style.

    What's not to love about the glorious sparkling beaches lining the shore that is paralleled by the Apuan Alps, their glistening white marble caps giving the appearance of snow in the distance?

    Aside from Milan, Forte dei Marmi's is the only Prada boutique in the company that showcases the name of the city on the bag.

    The village itself, quaint and yet quite fashionable, is centered around a market and a marble fortress built in 1788. Famed Carrara, known for its marble quarries, is the next village over and decorative marble abounds throughout Forte dei Marmi. There are even white Carrara marble street curbs and glistening marble door pulls.

    Gucci, Prada, Escada, Dolce Gabanna, Mui Mui, Tod's and Moncler all have boutiques here. In fact, I still carry the orange Prada tote that I purchased here several years ago. Aside from Milan, Forte dei Marmi's is the only Prada boutique in the company that showcases the name of the city on the bag. As a bag connoisseur, I was sold on my glorious find.

    Passing through the cobblestone streets lined by buildings where balconies are brimming with flowers, I was drawn by the window displays at Morini, where brightly-colored bags, skull images and camo bags beckoned. Hermés-style canvas bags, Celine-style luggage bags and shoes that looked like they could rock their way down a runway were the rage. The neon colors were an instant, appealing jolt.

    Morini was full of surprises inlcuding the wedge platforms I fell for — they were Brian Campbell from California. How frustrating is that? Shopping in Italy, but buying American. They were just too cool and too comfy to pass up. A Courreges patent/vinyl retro style jacket in an amazing sky blue was my splurge. I couldn't resist when I learned that it wasn't for sale in the States yet, and was available only in Italy and France.

    As I continued my journey through the cobblestone streets, I was stopped in my tracks by the window display at Fiacchini. There was the much-coveted and rarely-available Celine Luggage Tote. According to the incredibly stylish and sexy store manager, only 16 of these bags are received by the store each season, making me appreciate even more the exclusive shopping opportunities in Forte Dei Marme.

    One of my absolute favorite shopping experiences is Forte dei Marmi's outdoor market, held each Wednesday.

    One of my absolute favorite shopping experiences is Forte dei Marmi's outdoor market, held each Wednesday. The markets in Italy offer an amazing opportunity to see a melting pot of goods in a small location. For the most part they accept cash only so plan ahead to trade your dollars for euros.

    Italians in Forte dei Marmi and surrounding areas were astonished to discover that we had traveled so far to vacation in their beachside oasis. In fact, we never heard another American accent until we traveled to Florence.

    In the markets of Forte dei Marmi and Florence, the bright and exotic colors were enticing while the smell of leather belts and bags were reminiscent of my grandfather's shoe shine shop in Bryan/ College Station. For this reason and many more, I will keep returning to Forte dei Marmi with its engaging people, deep-rooted culture, scrumptious regional Italian cuisine and impeccable style.

    Donae Cangelosi Chramosta, the owner of The Vintage Contessa, writes about travel, design and fashion.

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    Now hear this

    New Texas museum shines spotlight on Tejano music history

    Edmond Ortiz
    Dec 18, 2025 | 11:30 am
    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, tejano music
    Photo by Edmond Ortiz
    Roger Hernandez serves as board president of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum.

    For a city that proudly calls itself the capital of Tejano music, San Antonio has long been missing a permanent place to honor the genre’s pioneers and preserve its history. That gap officially closed In December with the opening of the Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum at 1414 Fredericksburg Rd.

    The music couldn’t have found a better steward than its founder and board president. Roger Hernandez has had his finger on the pulse of Tejano music for decades. His company, En Caliente Productions, has provided a platform for countless performing artists and songwriters in Tejano, conjunto, and regional Mexican music since 1982.

    Hernandez says his wife, who ran a shop at Market Square years ago, would often get questions from visitors about the location of a physical Tejano music museum, a thing that simply did not exist. In 2022, he banded together with friends, family, and other local Tejano music supporters to make the nonprofit Hall of Fame a reality.

    “I decided I've been in the music scene for over 40 years, it's time to do a museum,” Hernandez recalls.

    Hernandez says a brick-and-mortar Tejano music museum has long been needed to remember musical acts and other individuals who grew the genre across Texas and northern Mexico, especially those who are aging. Recently, the community lost famed Tejano music producer Manny Guerra and Abraham Quintanilla, the renowned Tejano singer/songwriter and father of the late superstar Selena Quintanilla-Perez. Both deaths occurred roughly one week after the Totally Tejano museum opened to the public.

    “They're all dying. They're all getting older, and we need to acknowledge all these people,” Hernandez says.

    The Totally Tejano Museum — named after Hernandez’s Totally Tejano Television Roku streaming — has 5,000 square feet of space packed with plaques, photos, promotional posters, musical instruments, and other memorabilia honoring the pioneers and stars of the beloved genre. Mannequins wear stage outfits from icons like Laura Canales and Flaco Jimenez, and a wall of photos remembers late greats. Totally Tejano Television plays legendary performances on a loop, bringing the exhibits to life.

    Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum, San Antonio, Tejano music The newly opened Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum includes a growing collection of memorabilia. Photo by Edmond Ortiz

    Hernandez says the museum will soon welcome permanent and rotating exhibits, including traveling shows, a Hall of Fame section, and an area paying homage to Chicano music crossovers, such as the late Johnny Rodriguez, the South Texas singer-songwriter who blended country with Tex-Mex music. Plans call for the organization to hold its inaugural Hall of Fame induction in February 2026.

    Eventually, a 2,000 square feet back room will be converted into additional display space and host industry gatherings, community symposiums, and record and video release parties. The museum also plans to add a gift and record shop and a music learning room where visitors can listen to early Tejano music and browse archival photos. Hernandez is already talking with local school districts about educational field trips.

    Much like Tejano itself, the museum is a grassroots production. Hernandez and fellow board members have used their own money to rent, renovate, develop, and maintain the museum space. The board also leads the selection of the Hall of Fame honorees and curates the exhibits.

    Hernandez has been heartened by the museum’s reception, both from media outlets and music fans around Texas and beyond.

    “We had a radio station come in this morning from Houston to interview us,” he says. “People have come in from Lubbock, Texas. We have had people from Midland, Texas. We have another person who emailed us who’s coming in from New York. People are learning all about us.”

    That includes many of the musicians who helped shape the genre. Johnny Hernandez, Sunny Ozuna, Elida Reyna, and Danny Martinez from Danny and The Tejanos are among the luminaries who have already graced the halls.

    The Totally Tejano Hall of Fame and Museum is now open 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Sunday, and closed Monday. Admission is free, but donations are encouraged. Fans can call 210-314-1310 for more information.


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