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    Paris Treat

    Extra-ordinary people: Ron Mueck sculptures amaze audiences at Cartier art museum

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Jul 2, 2013 | 5:45 pm

    PARIS — Most tourists in the City of Light hightail it to the Louvre to glimpse the Mona Lisa and to the Musée D'Orsay to view masterworks by the Impressionists. But if you have a little more time to spare, I highly recommend a quick trip to the Left Bank to the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain (Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art).

    The airy glass building by Pritzker-award winning architect Jean Nouvel is a sight onto itself. But the current exhibit by Ron Mueck only adds to the pleasure. The Australian sculptor who lives in London is not exactly a household name, but his riveting figures — some larger-than-life, others almost in miniature — will stay in your memory long after an overseas trip is over.

    The airy glass building by Pritzker-award winning architect Jean Nouvel is a sight onto itself. But the current exhibit by Ron Mueck only adds to the pleasure.

    The Cartier exhibit wasn't on my Paris agenda until the company's representatives recommended the tour as an unforgettable addition. While known for its exquisite jewelry, Cartier has a keen interest in contemporary art, having created a foundation in 1984 to showcase established artists as well as up-and-comers.

    The starkly modern museum stands out amid the 18th century buildings on the Boulevard Raspail. Made of steel and lots of glass, it's a see-through structure with an overgrown garden in the back, landscaped by Lothar Baumgarten, which is a popular hangout on a sunny summer day.

    While I instantly fell in love with the building, I wasn't prepared for the exhibit of nine hyper-realistic sculptures by Mueck, an artist I had never heard of but one I will not forget. His work is not often displayed (the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth featured an exhibition of 13 of his pieces in 2007) but the Cartier Foundation has a special relationship with him, having shown his work in 2005 and again now.

    For this exhibit, Mueck created three new sculptures, including "Couple Under An Umbrella," a set of oversized figures that dominates one large room of the museum, in addition to six recent sculptures (among them, a nude middle-aged woman arching backwards under the weight of the twigs she bears, a young African-American man who realizes he has been stabbed and a muscular man in sunglasses resting on a raft).

    Because of its size and position in a room off from the entrance, the "Couple Under an Umbrella" immediately draws attention. The larger-than-life figures are resting on the beach in their sunset years; the women looks at her sleeping mate with an intense longing that still burns. Or is it a wistfulness for what never was?

    Searching for meaning

    Mueck doesn't speak about his work, so visitors are free to make up their own stories. My guide, Caroline, has fallen in love with the figures and has made up all sorts of backstories for the couple. She believes they aren't married since he's not wearing a wedding ring. I explain in the United States, it's common for a man not to wear a wedding ring, so that may not be the case.

    When looking at a Mueck sculpture, it's easy to let your imagination run wild.

    In a downstairs room, Mueck presents a sculpture of a young couple who appear to be in love. But look how he is holding her wrist in a way that could be construed as threatening. Things in a Mueck exhibit are never what they seem.

    To me, the duo looks like a younger version of the couple upstairs. The backstory I create is the young couple were in a fractious relationship but remained together. They may have gone through some trying times but have survived their differences into old age.

    In another sculpture, a weary-looking mother carrying a bag of groceries with her baby strapped to her chest looks like the older woman in an earlier incarnation while another sculpture of a ghostly man in a boat, appears to be her husband near death. When looking at a Mueck sculpture, it's easy to let your imagination run wild.

    The figures, made with silicone, have a life-like intensity. There are wrinkles and age spots in the face and the body; the man has hairy ears and stubble; fingers are marked with half-moon circles at the cuticle.

    In a celebrity era when everyone strives to glamorize figures, Mueck finds intensity in everyday life. He started his career as a model maker and puppeteer for children's films and it shows in his work. For those who want to know more, a new 50-minute film, Still Life: Ron Mueck at Work, is shown continuously in the museum during the exhibit (see a snippet of it below). The video follows Mueck in his London studio as he creates the figures.

    The exhibit is so popular that it has been held over another month, through Oct. 29. Admission is 9.50 euros (about $12.30) for adults, 6.50 euros (about $8.45) for students and seniors.

    Couple under an umbrella (© Ron Mueck)

    Ron Mueck exhibition Paris June 2013 couple
      
    Photo by © Thomas Salva Lumento pour la Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain, 2013
    Couple under an umbrella (© Ron Mueck)
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    American in Paris

    Personal Paris: Houston frequent flyer reveals fave things to do in her favorite city

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Jul 22, 2013 | 9:11 pm
    Personal Paris: Houston frequent flyer reveals fave things to do in her favorite city
    Photo by Eric Pouhier Wikipedia
    The Grand Palais is on Iannarelli's must-see list.

    Paris is almost like a second home for aircraft broker Janine Iannarelli. The founder of Houston-based Par Avion Ltd., Iannarelli travels regularly to the City of Light to buy and sell private jets to her international clientele. Last month, she was at the Paris Air Show, where she attended a lavish party in a chalet at the end of the runway hosted by Dassault Aviation, which introduced two new Falcon business jets, and a big party hosted by Breitling, which sponsors the largest aerobatic jet team in Europe.

    She also attended the Prix de Diane (France's answer to Ascot) at the Hippodrome de Chantilly, where the parade of hats was truly amazing. Iannarelli wore a design by Houstonian Gabriella Dror. And then she did what just about every stylish tourist does in the world's fashion capital: She went shopping.

    So we thought what better way to close out our Vive la France special editorial series, by asking Iannarelli for some of her favorite things to do in her favorite city.

    1. Go for a ride on a Bateaux Mouche

    Sure it may seem a little cheesy, but there's nothing like gliding down the Seine at night in one of the fabled excursion boats that passes by many of the city's most famous tourist attractions, Iannarelli says. "I don't care how much you know Paris or don't, it's something you won't forget." (Rent the 1963 movie, Charade, starring Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant, to get an idea of how romantic it can be.) A ride last around 75 minutes if you're not on a dinner cruise.

    2. Visit Notre-Dame Cathedral

    Widely considered to be one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture in the world, "it's a monument you need to see," says Iannarelli. "And it's even better if you've read Ken Follett's Pillars of the Earth."

    3. Stop by the Grand Palais

    While the Louvre and Musée d'Orsay are on everyone's list, Iannarelli loves the Grand Palais, the grand palace with an enormous glass roof built for the World Fair of 1900. The best time to go is on a Sunday afternoon when there's a special exhibit. "It's so quintessential Paris," she says.

    4. Shop at Le Bon Marché

    Sure, there are plenty of great luxury shops on the Avenue Montaigne and Rue Saint-Honoré, but Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche is in a class by itself. Founded in 1852, the store has one of the world's best-edited luxury selections, from the latest Chanel handbag, which Iannarelli purchased on this trip, to a wide variety of brightly colored socks that George W. Bush would love.

    5. Watch the world go by at the Jardin des Tuileries

    With a prime location between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde, the top garden in Paris is a perfect place for people watching.

    6. Have a drink at the Plaza Athénée

    With the Ritz Paris closed until December 2014 for renovation, there's no opportunity to grab a drink at Harry's Bar. So try the next best thing: The downstairs bar at the Plaza Athénée, on the Avenue Montaigne, is a popular late-night gathering spot as musicians, singers and guests launch into impromptu performances around the piano.

    7. Shop at Hervé Leroux

    The designer who invented the bandage dress has his own boutique with designs you won't see everywhere else. "He's a little bit under the radar," Iannarelli says.

    8. Dine at Le Goutillon in Chantilly

    Its location an hour outside Paris isn't convenient, but ​Iannarelli loves the classic French cuisine and the great people watching. "It's very famous among the horsey set," she says. "Anyone who is anyone in the equestrian world is there."

    Enjoy a boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Notre-Dame Cathedral, a must-see in itself, is in the background.

    Paris boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche tourist boat
      
    Photo by Attila Terbócs Wikipedia
    Enjoy a boat ride down the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Notre-Dame Cathedral, a must-see in itself, is in the background.
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