Foodie News

Long-delayed restaurant finally on track to open: Major chef's "Frankenstein" isn't dead after all

Triniti chef Ryan Hildebrand revealed he'd be opening Brande in the former Ruggles Grill space on Westheimer back in April 2012. Ruggles was torn down in October and things seemed to be moving along, but the lot remained empty for almost a year.

When Brande's expected chef Dax McAnear left to run the kitchen at craft beer bar The Hay Merchant, the restaurant seemed to be in limbo, another one of Houston's proverbial "vaporware" restaurants that's announced but never comes to fruition. But after a year-long wait, Hildebrand now tells CultureMap the project is back on track.

Hildebrand says Brande "started to feel like a Frankenstein of other places. It didn't feel like it was clear or crystallized."

Now called FM 903, Hildebrand says the restaurant's "concept evolved to very rustic, American fare with Southern accents." Modeled after a "Texas dog run," the building will have "an old, rustic feel" and be divided into a restaurant on one side and a full-service bakery and greenhouse on the other. Brande says he never really wanted to use his name for the restaurant and likes that FM 903 pays tribute to Westheimer's history as a farm-to-market road.

Engineers are finalizing the design and preparing to submit the plans to the city for approval. Hopefully, construction will begin by Jan. 1, and FM 903 will open in the late summer or early fall.

As for the delay, Hildebrand explains that Brande "started to feel like a Frankenstein of other places. It didn't feel like it was clear or crystallized." Therefore, the chef and his business partner put the project on hold. "We stopped trying to create something that was popular or trendy," he says.

In the new version, FM 903 will be built around a wood-burning oven that "strays from traditional Texas fare" with the addition of pizzas and pastas. Hildebrand adds that dishes will be "very minimal, very light-handed," with ingredients sourced as much as possible from the greenhouse. "I love it," Hildebrand says of FM 903's menu.

Although he says that McAnear was a "great fit" for Brande/FM 903, the chef's departure "won't slow us down." He wonders whether McAnear "lost faith" in the project but says they've never discussed it. As of now, "I'm going to open it . . . Hopefully, my Greg (Lowry, Triniti chef de cuisine) for 903 will present himself or herself."

One chef who's definitely committed to FM903 is Triniti's 24-year old pastry chef Samantha Mendoza. "She's a total rock star. I want to see her get the recognition she deserves," Hildebrand says.

Beginning Saturday Nov. 2 at 10 a.m., Triniti will host a weekly bakery pop-up featuring items that Mendoza will prepare at FM 903. Although Hildebrand says the project is a "massive undertaking for a 24 year old kid," he wants to "start working on products for Sam's bakery and get the word out." Patrons will be able to buy breads, macarons, cookies and other items.

Maybe it all makes for a new Saturday ritual: Start at the Eastside Farmers Market then go to Trinti for coffee and pastries.

Ruggles is gone, and soon FM903 will start to replace it.

Courtesy Photo

Ruggles is gone, and soon FM903 will start to replace it.

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where to eat on Christmas Day

More than 20 Houston restaurants that will be open on Christmas Day

Photo by Jenn Duncan

Live your own version of The Christmas Story at Duck N Bao.

On December 25, families all over Houston will gather for home-cooked Christmas Day feasts. We wish all of them a Merry Christmas.

For any number of reasons, not everyone will have that experience. This guide is for you. It contains a range of cuisines, locations, and price points to satisfy a range of tastes.

Of course, many restaurants in Chinatown and other Asian-oriented business districts will be open. Call your favorites to confirm their hours.

Afuri Ramen
Newly opened in the Heights, the restaurant will be serving steaming bowls of noodles, sushi rolls, and Basque cheesecake for its regular hours of 11 am - 10 pm.

Aga’s Restaurant & Catering
Nothing says Merry Christmas like goat chops and other Indo-Pak fare at this Southwest Houston restaurant that was recently featured in the New York Times. The restaurant will be open during its regular hours on Christmas.

Baso
The Heights restaurant will be open for its regular hours of 4-10 on Christmas. Expect the usual menu of chef-driven, Basque-influenced fare from chefs Max Lappe and Jacques Varon.

The Burger Joint
All three Houston-area locations will be serving sandwiches, fries, and milkshakes beginning at 11 am on Christmas.

Chow Wok
The Chinese American restaurant will be open its regular hours on Christmas. Since the restaurant will likely be busy, order your General Tso’s chicken, fried rice, shrimp rolls, dumplings, and more via its website.

Cleburne Cafeteria
The Houston institution will be open on Christmas Day from 11 am-8 pm with all of its comfort food favorites like chicken fried steak, roast turkey, and liver and onions. Don’t miss the freshly baked cakes and pies.

Davis St. at Hermann Park
Chef Mark Holley’s globally inspired restaurant will offer a four-course, $70 menu with lots of choices for appetizers, entrees, and desserts. Start with dishes such as gumbo, corn and crab chowder, chargrilled oysters, or crispy Thai shrimp. Entree choices include blackened redfish, turkey dinner, and grilled lamb chops ($14 supplement). Four dessert choices are available, but those in the know will opt for coconut cake.

Doris Metropolitan
The Israeli-inspired steakhouse will be open from 12-8 pm with its familiar menu of dry-aged steaks and Houston’s best bread service. Since December 25 is also the first night of Hanukkah, the restaurant will light a menorah at sundown.

Duck N Bao
For those craving Peking duck, soup dumplings, or Sichuan dishes, all three locations will be open their regular hours, 11 am - 9:30 pm.

Gold Tooth Tony's
Both locations of the Detroit-style pizzeria will open at 4 pm — just in time for the second half of the Texans game.

Hamsa
Rice Village’s modern Israeli restaurant will be open Christmas Day to serve its hummus, falafel, and other Mediterranean-inspired fare. Since December 25 is also the first night of Hanukkah, the restaurant will light a menorah at sundown.

Photo by Jenn Duncan

Live your own version of The Christmas Story at Duck N Bao.

Hongdae 33
This Korean restaurant in Chinatown’s Dun Huang Plaza will be open regular hours on Christmas Day, which means diners will be able to grill their meats tableside from 11:30 am all the way until midnight. The all-you-can-eat restaurant from the owners of Duck N Bao offers its full menu for $22 per person at lunch and $33 at dinner.

Juliet
The Galleria-area steakhouse will serve a Christmas Day buffet from 1-8 pm. Priced at $79 per adult, $48 for kids under 12, and free for children 5 and under, the buffet includes dishes such as hickory smoked ham, filet mignon, mashed potatoes, candied yams, cornbread dressing, cranberry sauce, lobster bisque, and dessert.

Karne
The upscale Korean steakhouse in the Heights will be serving up bulgogi, wagyu, and other grilled meats from 5-10 pm.

Kiran’s
The beloved Indian fine dining restaurant will serve its extravagant Christmas buffet ($110) with a wealth of choices that includes roasted duck, leg of lamb, cedar plank salmon, turkey pot pie, chicken tikka masala, a range of vegetable sides, and desserts. Reserve online.

La Griglia
The upscale Italian restaurant will be open from 12-6 with its usual menu plus specials such as short rib cappelletti, mushroom risotto, and grilled branzino.

Leo’s River Oaks
The upscale steakhouse and supper club will serve its regular menu that includes lobster bisque, seared scallops, grilled octopus, veal milanese, and more from 2-10 pm on Christmas Day.

Ojo de Agua
This Mexico City-based restaurant in River Oaks District will be open from 11 am - 8 pm on Christmas Day with its regular menu that includes breakfast dishes such as chilaquiles as well as sandwiches, tacos, salads, and more. Don’t miss the signature Açaí Bowl.

Phat Eatery
Katy’s acclaimed Malaysian restaurant will add Wagyu Rendang Wellington to its regular menu, 11 am - 9 pm. The Woodlands location is closed on Christmas.

The Palm
In addition to its regular menu, the downtown steakhouse will offer prime rib specials of 16 and 22 ounces ($69 or $79). , and a bone-in cut that weighs a hefty 32 ounces. Add a lobster tail to complete the experience, 12-8 pm.

Red Lion Pub
Head to the Anglo-Indian pub for dishes such as Shepherd’s Pie, fish and chips, and chicken tikka masala as well as a Christmas Day turkey dinner special with turkey, stuffing, yams, Brussels sprouts, mashed potatoes, and more ($38). It will be open for regular hours on Christmas Day (11 am-12 am).

Rudyard's
The favorite Montrose pub will open at 5 pm. Catch a free comedy show upstairs at 8 pm.

The Taco Stand
Both locations of the casual taqueria will be open from 8 am until midnight, because even Santa’s helpers deserve to start their day with breakfast tacos and finish it with canned margaritas.

Toro Toro
The pan-Latin steakhouse at downtown's Four Seasons Hotel will serve a four-course, $120 menu from 11 am - 3 pm. Choices include coconut butternut squash soup, baby kale salad, family-style entrees of Chilean sea bass and beef filet, and a dessert trio. Reservations are required.

The Warwick
The Galleria-area restaurant will be open on Christmas Day from 4-10 pm with its regular menu of elevated Southern fare.

Willie G’s
This seafood restaurant next to the Post Oak Hotel will serve an expansive Christmas buffet that’s priced at $69 for adults and $29 for children. Expect a full spread that includes prime rib, stuffed leg of lamb, a wide array of starters and sides, and an extensive raw bar with oysters, smoked salmon, peel & eat shrimp, and sushi rolls. Breads, pastries, and a couple of kid-specific dishes round out the offerings. 11 am - 7 pm

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