Food for Thought

Sole survivors: Houston's top chefs reveal their favorite footwear for racingaround the kitchen

Guess which chef wears a pair of adorable cupcake decorated Toms.? Here she issandwiched between her fur babies, Maddie and Bela. (See image 7 in thisslideshow for answer)
Photo by Robyn Arounty
Who wears cowboy boots in the kitchen? (See image 8 in this slideshow for theanswer)
Courtesy Photo
Who wears Coppa Keds in the kitchen? (See image 9 in this slideshow.)
Courtesy Photo
Who's favorites are black Birkis (Birkenstocks)? (See image 10 in thisslideshow)
Guess who likes lace-ups? (See image 11 in this slideshow)
Courtesy Photo
Who has a lot of running around a kitchen to do? (See image 12 in thisslideshow)
Courtesy Photo
It's Vanessa O'Donnell, pastry chef who owns Ooh La La Dessert Boutique is theowner of the cupcake-emblazoned Toms shoes.
Chef Randy Evans is scootin' around the kitchen of Havein in his cowboy boots.
Photo by Michelle Watson/CatchLightGroup.com
Naturally, it's Brandi Key of Coppa Ristorante Italiano who wears the CoppaKeds. "I'm Coppa from head to toe," she says.
Brandi Key/Facebook
Birkenstocks are best for chef David Coffman in the Katsuya kietchen.
Recipe4Success/Flickr
Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow likes lace-ups.
Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
Branch Water Tavern's David Grossman is sporting Brooks Pure Cadence runningshoes ‘cause he’s running big time in that kitchen.
Photo by Kimberly Park

You’re in a busy kitchen for 12 to 14 hours. You’re on your feet. Standing, hustling through cramped spaces with food and who knows what on the floor under your feet. You are tired, your back hurts and you’re slamming dish after dish for hungry customers.

Oh, and did we mention the temperatures are sizzling and you’re sweating up a storm?

So what do you wear on your feet?

Frankly, I have no idea why Batali-endorsed shoes would be orange because I seriously doubt he went to UT. But, you know, whatever.

House slippers might feel nice, but they wouldn’t last a minute in a commercial kitchen.

The chef footwear of choice is often the Croc, a slip-on, slip-resistant rubber shoe that is designed to “lessen the stress of long working days by relieving pressure on your feet, legs and back.” One of the most chef-popular is the Croc Bistro in Mario Batali orange. Frankly, I have no idea why Batali-endorsed shoes would be orange because I seriously doubt he went to UT. But, you know, whatever.

Executive sous chef Tyler Malson of Hotel Icon’s Line and Lariat likes his Crocs because they’re easy to clean (they’re even dishwasher safe!) but not every chef, particularly in Texas, wears these clogs to work.

Clogs to the curb

As part of her recent transformation, award-winning chef Monica Pope not only turned t’afia into Sparrow Bar +Cookshop, but she also burned her apron and kicked her clogs to the curb, choosing to don a new leather apron and lace-up shoes for kitchen duty. They are Italian leather shoes from Aviito in New York’s SoHo.

Her favorite is a pair in blue leather with red laces but she also has a version in brown and mottled beige. I don’t know if it’s the new attire or what, but what she’s sending out of her kitchen is awesomely delicious.

And Birkis seem to be way more popular with Houston chefs than Crocs: even chef Jason Bessent at Houston Texans Grille loves his black Birkis.

Over in the kitchen at Katsuya by S+ARCK, chef David Coffman stays with the clog look but prefers Birkis to Crocs. His favorite Birkenstock is a simple black one. Chef Aquiles Chavez at La Fisheria also favors the Birkis, preferably in black or orange. (Perfect for Halloween, we assume.)

And Birkis seem to be way more popular with Houston chefs than Crocs: even chef Jason Bessent at Houston Texans Grille loves his black Birkis.

Jonathan Jones, executive chef of Monarch Bistro at Hotel ZaZa Houston says, “Black rubber Chef Clog made by Keen. When I am out I wear Red Genuine Patent Leather Snake Skin Stacey Adams Wingtips!”

Whoa, styling.

But there are other choices, some creative, some branded, some just plain Texas.

Creative footwear

For instance, take chef Vanessa O’Donnell, as creative as she is in the pastry kitchen with her sweets at Ooh La La, she is also fanciful when it comes to her shoes. She shows her love of all things cupcake even when it comes to footwear. Check out her adorable cupcake decorated Toms, shown in the picture sandwiched between her fur babies, Maddie and Bela.

And why not show a little restaurant pride and get your toes into some comfy sneaks while working the ovens and grills? That’s just what executive chef Brandi Key of Coppa Ristorante Italiano does.

As Key likes to say: “I'm Coppa from head to toe!”

Or maybe it’s just because Evans is a Texan and that’s the way he rolls, but his footwear of choice in the kitchen (and pretty much everywhere) is cowboy boots. But that wasn’t always the case.

And she is, check out her custom-made Keds she orders from Converse.com in navy and yellow leather with the Coppa name on them. Awesome.

But even Keds aren’t enough for a busy chef on the run. Just ask David Grossman at the hot Branch Water Tavern. When he’s crankin’ out his chicken fried oysters, bacon-wrapped Gulf shrimp and Harris Ranch New York strip steaks, he’s sporting Brooks Pure Cadence Running Shoes. ‘Cause he’s running big time in that kitchen.

And then there’s Randy Evans of Haven. Maybe it’s because this farm-to-fork chef spends so much time out in his garden or hunting farmers markets, or maybe it's because his restaurant was built with repurposed wood and equipment. Or maybe it’s just because he’s Texan and that’s the way he rolls, but his footwear of choice in the kitchen (and pretty much everywhere) is cowboy boots. But that wasn’t always the case.

“I started cooking in professional kitchens in 1995 and have worn all sorts of footwear,” Evans explains. “I started with Doc Martens, the sole always split due to the grease, then went to Knapp work shoes and I felt like an old man. I moved to Wolverine work boots but they were way too heavy.

"I switched to Birkenstocks, they were great, but did not support my step. I then started wearing Troentorp Bastad wooden clogs. I lived in them and wore them until the fire at Brennan’s. They were in my office and were lost in the fire.

"So finally I decided to wear Lucchese boots with a crepe sole. They are light, comfortable, and sturdy. I have three pairs I wear; black ostrich, brown pigskin and tan goatskin. My favorites are the ostrich!”

And that’s just how Texas chefs roll.

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no screaming required

15 Houston restaurants crafting nostalgic and decadent ice cream sundaes

Alex Montoya

The Pit Room in Memorial has a build-your-own dessert bar where patrons can craft sundaes with cookies and toppings.

There’s no need to scream for ice cream when dining at the Houston restaurants listed below as they all scoop out ice cream sundaes for patrons to enjoy. The timeless frozen treat has made a delicious comeback on dessert menus, with variations — like decadent build-your-own bars — appearing all over Houston.

This list takes a broad view of what constitutes a sundae — in line with its dictionary definition of “a dish consisting of ice cream served with toppings.” With that description in mind, sundae fans will discover several iterations of the classic dessert at these local eateries.

The miso caramel sundae at Balboa Surf ClubCourtesy of Western Addition

Balboa Surf Club
Balboa Surf Club emphasizes details in its food, from the sushi rice prepared fresh every 45 minutes to the elegantly crafted miso caramel sundae. A rich housemade miso caramel sauce is drizzled on three scoops of ice cream before being crowned with shaved chocolate, whipped cream, and crushed macadamia nuts.

Buttermilk Baby
The charming burger joint in the Heights could be a Candyland palace stand-in, so it’s only right that diners can order a Carvel’s sundae dasher with Reese’s or Oreo’s (12oz/$7.50, 16oz/$8.50) with layer upon layer of ice cream, whipped cream, and crunchy candy or cookies.

The buttermilk sundae at CredenceCourtesy of Credence

Credence
The buttermilk sundae at Credence aligns with the restaurant’s dedication to preparing ingredients over an open flame in a nod to South Texas’ rugged landscape. The cold treat is served with caramel cooked in embers and toasted pecans, a fitting tribute to Texas.

Pistachio soft serve at ElRo Pizzeria and CrudoCourtesy of ElRo Pizzeria and Crudo

ElRo Pizza & Crudo
This pizzeria is based in a bungalow tucked into a spot where Montrose and Midtown converge, and its soft serve sundae is just as approachable as the locale. The pistachio soft serve ($10) is made in-house at ElRo before being covered in crumbled cannoli shells that have been dipped in chocolate.

il Braco's Italian sundae with olive oilCourtesy of Western Addition

il Bracco
The Italian sundae at il Braco is a luxurious dish with olive oil, chopped pistachios, and three scoops of vanilla ice cream resulting in a smooth, creamy dessert. Flaky sea salt adds texture while enhancing the sundae’s sweetness.

Katami's sundae is made with Japanese shaved iceCourtesy of Katami

Katami
The American dessert receives an international spin at Katami, where the restaurant substitutes ice cream with kakigori, Japanese shaved ice. The green tea ($15) is made with white chocolate cream, caramel, and condensed milk. The strawberry Nutella ($16) combines chocolate ice cream with mascarpone cream, Nutella, and strawberry compote.

La Lucha's soft serve sundaeCourtesy of La Lucha

La Lucha
After slurping down oysters at this stylish spot on Shepherd, it’s time for soft serve. Diners can build their own soft serve sundae ($7) with Nutella or vanilla ice cream. Then come the toppings and there are plenty to choose from, with pecans, Maldon sea salt, Fruity Pebbles, and mini M&Ms, to name a few.

Little Rey
Houston native Ford Fry brought his Atlanta-based chain, Little Rey, to the city this summer with street tacos and other northern Mexico-inspired fare. The eatery’s soft serve machine is getting lots of love from patrons, with a range of flavors and toppings. The newest soft serve “sundae” is a Mexican spiced chocolate concoction with peppermint bark and sea salt.

The Marigold Club's sundae cartPhoto by Zach Horst

The Marigold Club
The classic sundae experience is elevated with the upscale restaurant's sundae cart ($22). A server navigates the elegant walnut cart through the Marigold Club's dining room, laden with housemade chai tea, clotted cream, and chocolate ice creams. Patrons can craft their ideal sundae without leaving their seats thanks to an array of toppings from sprinkles and candied hazelnuts to rum-infused banana jam and vanilla chantilly.

Medium Rare's hot fudge sundaePhoto by Alex Staniloff

Medium Rare
Dessert isn’t included in Medium Rare’s, two-course, $33 dinner of steak frites and salad, but the hot fudge sundae ($12) is worth the order. Also known as le sundae maison with sauce au chocolat chaud, the classic creation’s vanilla ice cream is smothered in hot fudge, with sprinkles scattered over a tower of whipped cream with a cherry on top.

Relish Restaurant & Bar
Relish's Town & Country location may have only recently opened its doors, but it's already dishing out a housemade vanilla soft serve sundae ($6). Relish's take on the dessert is adorned with Luxardo cherries, candied pistachios, and shaved dark chocolate. At the original River Oaks location, diners will find the sundae with sweet cream ice cream.

the annie cafe's sundae The Annie sundae at The Annie Cafe and BarPhoto Kirsten Gilliam

The Annie Cafe and Bar
This Uptown cafe delivers a sophisticated interpretation of Texas-American cuisine and the Lone Star State inspiration is evident with the Annie sundae ($12). Vanilla and chocolate ice cream are smothered in chewy brownie bites, pralines, and marshmallow fluff, before being stacked with churros.

The Pit Room has a dessert bar for guests to create sundaes. The Pit Room's Memorial location has a dessert bar to create sundaes. Photo by Alex Montoya

The Pit Room
Diners can step up to The Pit Room’s dessert bar at its Memorial location to customize a sundae by mixing and matching ice cream flavors, such as sweet cream, pistachio, and birthday cake, with fresh baked cookies like chocolate chip and red velvet white chocolate. Garnishments such as sprinkles, chocolate syrup, and whipped cream are on hand to complete the masterpiece.

The coffee ice cream sundae at Tiny ChampionsCourtesy of Tiny Champions

Tiny Champions
The coffee ice cream sundae ($12) is the perfect way to end a meal at this pizzeria from the team behind Nancy's Hustle. At Tiny Champions, coffee beans are cold-steeped in housemade ice cream for 48 hours, infusing it with rich flavor. The sundae is then topped with hot fudge and pillowy, freshly fried donut holes.

The turtle brownie sundae at Turner'sPhoto by Brian Kennedy

Turner's
The fine dining establishment’s turtle brownie sundae ($17) is a recent addition to the menu. “We wanted to create an elevated take on the beloved, classic dessert by adding refined ingredients, including candied pecans and bourbon whipped cream,” restaurateur Ben Berg told CultureMap. “It’s the sundae you loved as a child, with the elegance you expect when dining at Turner’s.”

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