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    Food for Thought

    Sole survivors: Houston's top chefs reveal their favorite footwear for racingaround the kitchen

    Marene Gustin
    Oct 21, 2012 | 2:27 pm
    • Guess which chef wears a pair of adorable cupcake decorated Toms.? Here she issandwiched between her fur babies, Maddie and Bela. (See image 7 in thisslideshow for answer)
      Photo by Robyn Arounty
    • Who wears cowboy boots in the kitchen? (See image 8 in this slideshow for theanswer)
      Courtesy Photo
    • Who wears Coppa Keds in the kitchen? (See image 9 in this slideshow.)
      Courtesy Photo
    • Who's favorites are black Birkis (Birkenstocks)? (See image 10 in thisslideshow)
    • Guess who likes lace-ups? (See image 11 in this slideshow)
      Courtesy Photo
    • Who has a lot of running around a kitchen to do? (See image 12 in thisslideshow)
      Courtesy Photo
    • It's Vanessa O'Donnell, pastry chef who owns Ooh La La Dessert Boutique is theowner of the cupcake-emblazoned Toms shoes.
    • Chef Randy Evans is scootin' around the kitchen of Havein in his cowboy boots.
      Photo by Michelle Watson/CatchLightGroup.com
    • Naturally, it's Brandi Key of Coppa Ristorante Italiano who wears the CoppaKeds. "I'm Coppa from head to toe," she says.
      Brandi Key/Facebook
    • Birkenstocks are best for chef David Coffman in the Katsuya kietchen.
      Recipe4Success/Flickr
    • Chef Monica Pope of Sparrow likes lace-ups.
      Photo by Julie Soefer/Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Branch Water Tavern's David Grossman is sporting Brooks Pure Cadence runningshoes ‘cause he’s running big time in that kitchen.
      Photo by Kimberly Park

    You’re in a busy kitchen for 12 to 14 hours. You’re on your feet. Standing, hustling through cramped spaces with food and who knows what on the floor under your feet. You are tired, your back hurts and you’re slamming dish after dish for hungry customers.

    Oh, and did we mention the temperatures are sizzling and you’re sweating up a storm?

    So what do you wear on your feet?

    Frankly, I have no idea why Batali-endorsed shoes would be orange because I seriously doubt he went to UT. But, you know, whatever.

    House slippers might feel nice, but they wouldn’t last a minute in a commercial kitchen.

    The chef footwear of choice is often the Croc, a slip-on, slip-resistant rubber shoe that is designed to “lessen the stress of long working days by relieving pressure on your feet, legs and back.” One of the most chef-popular is the Croc Bistro in Mario Batali orange. Frankly, I have no idea why Batali-endorsed shoes would be orange because I seriously doubt he went to UT. But, you know, whatever.

    Executive sous chef Tyler Malson of Hotel Icon’s Line and Lariat likes his Crocs because they’re easy to clean (they’re even dishwasher safe!) but not every chef, particularly in Texas, wears these clogs to work.

    Clogs to the curb

    As part of her recent transformation, award-winning chef Monica Pope not only turned t’afia into Sparrow Bar +Cookshop, but she also burned her apron and kicked her clogs to the curb, choosing to don a new leather apron and lace-up shoes for kitchen duty. They are Italian leather shoes from Aviito in New York’s SoHo.

    Her favorite is a pair in blue leather with red laces but she also has a version in brown and mottled beige. I don’t know if it’s the new attire or what, but what she’s sending out of her kitchen is awesomely delicious.

    And Birkis seem to be way more popular with Houston chefs than Crocs: even chef Jason Bessent at Houston Texans Grille loves his black Birkis.

    Over in the kitchen at Katsuya by S+ARCK, chef David Coffman stays with the clog look but prefers Birkis to Crocs. His favorite Birkenstock is a simple black one. Chef Aquiles Chavez at La Fisheria also favors the Birkis, preferably in black or orange. (Perfect for Halloween, we assume.)

    And Birkis seem to be way more popular with Houston chefs than Crocs: even chef Jason Bessent at Houston Texans Grille loves his black Birkis.

    Jonathan Jones, executive chef of Monarch Bistro at Hotel ZaZa Houston says, “Black rubber Chef Clog made by Keen. When I am out I wear Red Genuine Patent Leather Snake Skin Stacey Adams Wingtips!”

    Whoa, styling.

    But there are other choices, some creative, some branded, some just plain Texas.

    Creative footwear

    For instance, take chef Vanessa O’Donnell, as creative as she is in the pastry kitchen with her sweets at Ooh La La, she is also fanciful when it comes to her shoes. She shows her love of all things cupcake even when it comes to footwear. Check out her adorable cupcake decorated Toms, shown in the picture sandwiched between her fur babies, Maddie and Bela.

    And why not show a little restaurant pride and get your toes into some comfy sneaks while working the ovens and grills? That’s just what executive chef Brandi Key of Coppa Ristorante Italiano does.

    As Key likes to say: “I'm Coppa from head to toe!”

    Or maybe it’s just because Evans is a Texan and that’s the way he rolls, but his footwear of choice in the kitchen (and pretty much everywhere) is cowboy boots. But that wasn’t always the case.

    And she is, check out her custom-made Keds she orders from Converse.com in navy and yellow leather with the Coppa name on them. Awesome.

    But even Keds aren’t enough for a busy chef on the run. Just ask David Grossman at the hot Branch Water Tavern. When he’s crankin’ out his chicken fried oysters, bacon-wrapped Gulf shrimp and Harris Ranch New York strip steaks, he’s sporting Brooks Pure Cadence Running Shoes. ‘Cause he’s running big time in that kitchen.

    And then there’s Randy Evans of Haven. Maybe it’s because this farm-to-fork chef spends so much time out in his garden or hunting farmers markets, or maybe it's because his restaurant was built with repurposed wood and equipment. Or maybe it’s just because he’s Texan and that’s the way he rolls, but his footwear of choice in the kitchen (and pretty much everywhere) is cowboy boots. But that wasn’t always the case.

    “I started cooking in professional kitchens in 1995 and have worn all sorts of footwear,” Evans explains. “I started with Doc Martens, the sole always split due to the grease, then went to Knapp work shoes and I felt like an old man. I moved to Wolverine work boots but they were way too heavy.

    "I switched to Birkenstocks, they were great, but did not support my step. I then started wearing Troentorp Bastad wooden clogs. I lived in them and wore them until the fire at Brennan’s. They were in my office and were lost in the fire.

    "So finally I decided to wear Lucchese boots with a crepe sole. They are light, comfortable, and sturdy. I have three pairs I wear; black ostrich, brown pigskin and tan goatskin. My favorites are the ostrich!”

    And that’s just how Texas chefs roll.

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    where's eric eating

    CultureMap editor's 10 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in November

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 2, 2025 | 5:13 pm
    Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

    November’s dining adventures across Houston consisted of only a couple of new restaurants, an upscale, contemporary Chinese restaurant in River Oaks; an ambitious neighborhood eatery in Garden Oaks; and a buzzy barbecue spot on the border of Conroe and The Woodlands.

    The month also provided me with an opportunity to visit a veteran chef in his new home, catch up one of the city’s new additions to the Michelin Guide, and sample a po’ boy from the rising star chef behind Houston’s hottest new burger joint.

    As a reminder, this list isn’t ranked. I liked all of these dishes for different reasons.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in November.

    Lobster Fettuccine at State of Grace
    Chef Ryan Lachaine is off to a strong start as the executive chef of the River Oaks restaurant. The lobster fettuccine — pasta made in-house, of course — features a generous portion of seafood along with a lobster-infused sauce americane. In addition to a couple of Riel favorites, the caviar tots and the butter burgers, he’s also introduced a cheese fondue that matches the menu’s Continental-influenced, retro vibe.

    Birria Beef Pacchei at Lazy Lane
    The newly opened Garden Oaks restaurant is putting a Houston spin on classic Mediterranean dishes. In this entree, house made pasta is paired with braised beef cheek, radishes, salsa verde, and herbs, turning the building blocks of barbacoa tacos into a form that fits the ambitious neighborhood restaurant. Other highlights from the meal included Spanish meatballs and crispy skin ocean trout over beet risotto.

    Deviled Crab at Credence
    One of the 14 Houston restaurants added to the Michelin Guide for 2025, the live fire restaurant near Memorial City Mall serves this dish instead of a crab cake. Blue crab meat gets sauteed in smoky tomato butter for a bite that’s sweet, smoky, and satisfying. Pair it with the grilled snapper for the full Gulf Coast seafood experience.

    Peking Duck at Maison Chinoise
    This contemporary Chinese restaurant from the company behind Toulouse and Lombardi Cucina Italiana is already winning fans in River Oaks. The Peking duck, a speciality of chef Jordan He, delivers tender meat, crispy skin, and paper-thin crepes that are worthy of any version served around town. Pair it with some of the restaurant’s extensive dumpling selection for the full experience.

    Branzino at Okto
    Chef Yotam Dolev recently updated the menu at this Mediterranean-influenced Montrose restaurant. Seared to achieve a crispy skin, the flakey white fish sits in a tomato-gazpacho broth with fennel and olives. Don’t miss the signature frena bread and Greek salad.

    Shrimp Po’ Boy at Boo’s Burgers
    One perk of moving from pop-up to brick-and-mortar is that it allows Boo’s Burgers chef-owner Joseph Boudreaux to indulge creative impulses such as a rotating Friday fish special that’s currently this sandwich. Loaded with a generous serving of crispy, well-fried shrimp, the sandwich is simply dressed shredded lettuce, tomato, and the chef’s smoky burger sauce. Get it before Boudreaux moves on to another special.

    Veal Piccata at Fielding’s River Oaks
    The River Oaks restaurants is fond of fusion flavors, and its take on veal piccata is no exception. Instead of the usual lemon-caper sauce, Fielding’s serves its veal in a richer mushroom cream sauce with fall-friendly caramelized apples and creamed spinach. It’s a heartier take on the classic that’s well-suited to winter’s recent arrival.

    Barbecue at Charm Taphouse & BBQ
    Thai fare meets Texas at this restaurant on the border of The Woodlands and Tomball. The house made sausages are a standout, particularly the beef-and-basil and German hotlink, particularly when dipped in the restaurant’s tangy nam jim jaew. While the brisket and ribs could’ve used a little longer in the smoking, a weekend prime rib special with a crispy crust and well-rendered fat already has me contemplating a return visit.

    Shrimp Tacos at Cochinita & Co.
    At this restaurant in the East End, plump shrimp are paired with a sweet and spicy pineapple pico and a morita aioli, then wrapped in house made corn tortillas. Good ingredients and precise execution — the shrimp are cooked gently enough to retain a springy texture and mild sweetness — make them some of my favorite tacos in Houston. A side of the vegetarian black beans make for a tasty companion.

    Tonkotsu Gachi at Japanese Ramen Gachi
    Influenced by Shawn the Food Sheep, I visited the two-year-old Med Center-area restaurant for dinner. The signature tonkotsu features a well-seasoned, milk-colored broth with deep pork flavor and major umami punch. Paired with some karaage it made for a very satisfying dinner — just be aware that the Food Sheep’s flock may overwhelm the restaurant’s ability to serve diners quickly.



    Charm Taphouse & BBQ

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Try the sausages at Charm Taphouse & BBQ.

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