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    foodie news

    Houston Restaurant Week speed dating: Molé mania at Cielo & illicit chit Chaatat Indika

    Steven Devadanam
    Aug 23, 2010 | 11:37 am
    • Chocolate mole enchiladas at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Tortilla soup at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mulligatawny soup at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mango kulfi at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chaat at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chocolate bread pudding at Indika
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Patra fish at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Tacos al carbon at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson

    Dear Restaurant Week Diary,

    I'm beginning to think that participating in Houston Restaurant Week is the new speed dating: The quick judgments, the merry-go-round of seats, the frugal feast — it's all part of the thrilling rush of snagging a tantalizing new supper.

    I've been making the rounds, and although I'll deny the tweets accusing me of being a "#restaurantweekslut," it's been a pleasure rekindling with some of the city's finer dining establishments.

    At a recent lunch, I checked in with a coworker at Cielo — the slightly upscale Tex-Mex eatery on the north end of downtown. Don't go here for people watching, because there aren't ever any people at Cielo. Also, don't go for the first course of the lunch menu. My tortilla soup was decent enough, but seemed to feature vegetables straight out of a bag of frozen mixed peas and carrots.

    My companion's salad differed greatly from its description on the menu. What was meant to be a mix of baby field greens, sun-dried figs, pea pods and cherry tomatoes tossed in a roasted hazelnut vinaigrette arrived at the table as a wilted heap of mushy bagged salad mix accompanied by slices of cucumber and scant slabs of unripe tomatoes — no figs or pea pods in sight. In a word, the salad was inedible.

    Nevertheless, Cielo won our hearts with the main courses. The chocolate molé atop chicken enchiladas had a quality that can't be found on Richmond Avenue's Tex-Mex dives, and was accompanied by a ramekin of refried beans with a silky texture unlike the more common gelatinous, pasty variety. The tacos al carbon also pleased, simply complemented with chopped cilantro and crumbled queso fresco (although the charro beans are very take-it-or-leave-it).

    Later, I found myself booking a nighttime table at Indika. It was my first stop at the lower Westheimer modern Indian hotspot in over a year — and it was worth the wait. As opposed to the borderline hostile vibes I received from waiters at The Grove and Catalan, my party was warmly greeted with an amuse bouche and taste of an Indian scotch.

    A first course of mulligatawny soup featured a green broth with asparagus and sizable shrimp — a dish I could easily recommend. A tasting of Chaat (Indika's rendition of street food) was also pleasing with its mélange of south Asian morsels.

    The star entrée on Indika's restaurant week menu is patra fish — local grouper marinated in a green masala and steamed in banana leaves. The steaming process lent the fish a moistness that all but disappears when a filet is grilled. The accompanying semolina purée and sautéed okra bring to mind a healthier version of Southern cheesy grits and fried okra.

    The second entrée also delighted — an oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews, bathed in green masala sauce and also accompanied with okra. This may be the vegetarian option, but it's not exactly light fare. The paneer and nuts give the dish a meatiness that left me wishing that I had room to eat every last bite. Literally and figuratively, the eggplant is a multi-layered experience that will remain forever in my restaurant week memory.

    The evening at Indika was also brought my first encounter with kulfi, India's answer to ice cream. The menu's mango kulfi is artfully sliced in circular disks — it has the richness of ice cream but refreshing, icy texture of sorbet. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the chocolate bread pudding with cardamom crème anglaise — Indika's answer to Western dessert decadence. The brick of luscious bread is the perfect reward as Houston Restaurant Week rambles on through Labor Day.

    Happy dining,

    Steven

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars

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