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    foodie news

    Houston Restaurant Week speed dating: Molé mania at Cielo & illicit chit Chaatat Indika

    Steven Devadanam
    Aug 23, 2010 | 11:37 am
    • Chocolate mole enchiladas at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Tortilla soup at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mulligatawny soup at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Mango kulfi at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chaat at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Chocolate bread pudding at Indika
      Photo by Steven Thomson
    • Patra fish at Indika
      Photo by Cameron Blaylock
    • Tacos al carbon at Cielo
      Photo by Steven Thomson

    Dear Restaurant Week Diary,

    I'm beginning to think that participating in Houston Restaurant Week is the new speed dating: The quick judgments, the merry-go-round of seats, the frugal feast — it's all part of the thrilling rush of snagging a tantalizing new supper.

    I've been making the rounds, and although I'll deny the tweets accusing me of being a "#restaurantweekslut," it's been a pleasure rekindling with some of the city's finer dining establishments.

    At a recent lunch, I checked in with a coworker at Cielo — the slightly upscale Tex-Mex eatery on the north end of downtown. Don't go here for people watching, because there aren't ever any people at Cielo. Also, don't go for the first course of the lunch menu. My tortilla soup was decent enough, but seemed to feature vegetables straight out of a bag of frozen mixed peas and carrots.

    My companion's salad differed greatly from its description on the menu. What was meant to be a mix of baby field greens, sun-dried figs, pea pods and cherry tomatoes tossed in a roasted hazelnut vinaigrette arrived at the table as a wilted heap of mushy bagged salad mix accompanied by slices of cucumber and scant slabs of unripe tomatoes — no figs or pea pods in sight. In a word, the salad was inedible.

    Nevertheless, Cielo won our hearts with the main courses. The chocolate molé atop chicken enchiladas had a quality that can't be found on Richmond Avenue's Tex-Mex dives, and was accompanied by a ramekin of refried beans with a silky texture unlike the more common gelatinous, pasty variety. The tacos al carbon also pleased, simply complemented with chopped cilantro and crumbled queso fresco (although the charro beans are very take-it-or-leave-it).

    Later, I found myself booking a nighttime table at Indika. It was my first stop at the lower Westheimer modern Indian hotspot in over a year — and it was worth the wait. As opposed to the borderline hostile vibes I received from waiters at The Grove and Catalan, my party was warmly greeted with an amuse bouche and taste of an Indian scotch.

    A first course of mulligatawny soup featured a green broth with asparagus and sizable shrimp — a dish I could easily recommend. A tasting of Chaat (Indika's rendition of street food) was also pleasing with its mélange of south Asian morsels.

    The star entrée on Indika's restaurant week menu is patra fish — local grouper marinated in a green masala and steamed in banana leaves. The steaming process lent the fish a moistness that all but disappears when a filet is grilled. The accompanying semolina purée and sautéed okra bring to mind a healthier version of Southern cheesy grits and fried okra.

    The second entrée also delighted — an oven roasted heirloom eggplant stuffed with paneer and cashews, bathed in green masala sauce and also accompanied with okra. This may be the vegetarian option, but it's not exactly light fare. The paneer and nuts give the dish a meatiness that left me wishing that I had room to eat every last bite. Literally and figuratively, the eggplant is a multi-layered experience that will remain forever in my restaurant week memory.

    The evening at Indika was also brought my first encounter with kulfi, India's answer to ice cream. The menu's mango kulfi is artfully sliced in circular disks — it has the richness of ice cream but refreshing, icy texture of sorbet. On the opposite end of the spectrum is the chocolate bread pudding with cardamom crème anglaise — Indika's answer to Western dessert decadence. The brick of luscious bread is the perfect reward as Houston Restaurant Week rambles on through Labor Day.

    Happy dining,

    Steven

    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    coming to River Oaks District

    French pastry chef perks up Houston with first U.S. coffee shop and café

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 15, 2025 | 11:31 am
    Cafe Feuillette exterior
    Photo by Sébastien Dray
    Café Feuillette is coming to River Oaks District.

    A French coffee shop and cafe is coming to Houston. Pastry chef Jean-François Feuillette will open the first U.S. location of Café Feuillette in River Oaks District next year.

    Located at the corner of Betis and Westcreek on the first floor of the Grey House Apartments, Café Feuillette will be open for breakfast, lunch, and afternoon snacks. Diners can expect design elements such as cozy benches and floral wallpaper, according to press materials.

    “I’m thrilled to bring the Café Feuillette concept to the United States and especially to Houston,” Feuillette said in a statement. “This city truly won me over. Its energy, cultural richness, and culinary scene made it the ideal place to introduce our French coffee shop concept abroad,”

    Café Feuillette’s menu will center on salads, sandwiches, and classic French desserts such as filled madeleines, canelés, brioches, and chocolate fondant. They’ll be paired with drinks named for French desserts such as vanilla flan and Paris-brest.

    “We take pride in making everything ourselves, from the vinaigrette to the mayonnaise, and of course, the bread in every sandwich. It’s all about taste. That’s how we stand out, just like we do in our bakeries in France,” Feuillette said.

    Chef Feuillette trained at Paris’s celebrated Pierre Hermé bakery before establishment a network of over 100 bakeries in France. He also operates Frédélian in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France and Chez Lucette in Blois.

    Café Feuillette is his take on the modern coffee shop. If it’s successful in Houston, the cafe could grow throughout America.

    “The potential for growth in the U.S. is endless,” Feuillette said. “We are passionate about showcasing our French know-how to Americans, and this is just the beginning.”


    Cafe Feuillette exterior

    Photo by Sébastien Dray

    Café Feuillette is coming to River Oaks District.

    chefsopeningscoffeedessertsnews-you-can-eatriver oaks district
    news/restaurants-bars
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