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    Food for Thought

    Where to find the best soup in Houston — including ones that stare back

    Marene Gustin
    Jan 23, 2012 | 11:39 am
    • Chef Philippe Schmit does use some garlic in his French onion soup, one of thestaples at Philippe Restaurant + Lounge. And it’s awesome.
      Photo by Catherine Walsh
    • "French onion soup...is always comforting and calming to the soul," says DavidLuna of Line & Lariat.
      Photo via Hotel Icon
    • And let’s not get started on Vietnamese soups. Who can pass up Jenni’s NoodleHouse?
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • There's also tortilla soup, and TQLA chef Tommy Birdwell does a mean Aztectortilla soup that will warm your bones
      Photo by Scott Lindsey

    Recently felled by a vicious head cold, I lay on the sofa clutching the TV remote in one hand and a box of tissues in the other, longing for soup.

    But not just any soup.

    Many years ago, in Austin, we used to swear by the garlic onion soup that was made daily and sold on The Drag at the grocery co-op. It was really more garlic than onion. Not only was it delicious, it was better than penicillin for curing whatever ailed you. One cup and you felt instantly revitalized.

    You could breathe again! You just couldn’t breathe on someone else.

    Soup is such a simple and sustainable dish. I have no idea how many kinds of soup there are but just Google soup recipes and you’ll get 64,800,000 results.

    Sadly, I don’t know anywhere in Houston that sells garlic onion soup. And I wasn’t about to get up off my deathbed and make it myself.

    So I settled for a mercy delivery of Tex-Mex and aspirin.

    But the thought of soup remains with me, particularly with the fact that January is National Soup Month.

    So what’s your favorite soup?

    For Dad, surprisingly, it’s French onion soup. I would have thought it would be some kind of cheese soup, considering how much he loves chili con queso. But no, he loves French onion soup. And I have to admit I do to.

    And we’re not alone.

    “My favorite soup is French onion soup,” say chef David Luna of the Line & Lariat at Hotel Icon. “It’s always comforting and calming to the soul.”

    He makes his with chicken stock instead of beef stock but insists on a good nutty Gruyère. (His recipe is below. Next time I’m sick please make this for me, and maybe throw in some garlic.)

    Actually chef Philippe Schmit does use some garlic in his French onion soup, one of the staples at Philippe Restaurant + Lounge. And it’s also awesome, although it’s pretty hard to mess up onion soup. Even the canned versions are pretty good in a pinch. Just add some warm bread to sop up the remains.

    But soup is such a simple and sustainable dish. You can make it from almost anything. I have no idea how many kinds of soup there are but just Google soup recipes and you’ll get 64,800,000 results.

    I’d have to say one of my favorites is broccoli cheese, the cheesier the better. Check out the creamy broccoli cheese soup at Luby’s (oh, come on, you know you eat there, too) for a real homey taste that you can make at home yourself, the recipe is included in the Luby’s Recipes and Memories Cookbook.

    Oh, and then there’s the great and hearty baked potato soup at The Black Labrador, snuggle up by the fire with a bowl and a pint of black and tan and you’ll be good to go.

    And let’s not get started on Vietnamese soups. Who can pass up the pho at Jenni’s Noodle House (there’s also a Faux Pho for vegetarians) or the Mama Tran shrimp soup?

    And of course, let’s not forget those soups from South of the border way. TQLA chef Tommy Birdwell does a mean Aztec tortilla soup that will warm your bones but there’s also menudo, although it’s not for the faint of heart . . . er . . . stomach. Since it’s made from beef tripe. As in stomach.

    “Growing up, my grandfather’s menudo was a wintertime tradition for us, especially around the holidays,” says chef Roland Soza of Bistro Alex. “We have a huge family, so it was great to see everyone enjoy a big bowl of soup with limes, fresh corn tortillas and onions, while enjoying the moment of family time. Another childhood memory tied to soups was my uncles’ goat stew.

    "It would freak my cousins out when they saw the whole head of the goat floating in the soup. Now I know what my uncles were trying to accomplish, it was to add more flavor to the broth.”

    I’m not sure I could eat that, particularly if I were under the weather, say, with a stomach virus. At least with menudo you don’t actually see the stomach looking back at you.

    Maybe when under the weather I’ll stick with some Jewish penicillin. Just a big bowl of chicken soup with a giant matzo ball from Kenny & Ziggy’s Deli.

    Because the matzo ball can’t stare back at you.


    Chef David Luna’s French Onion Soup Recipe
    6 each Yellow onions, sliced 1/4" thick
    ¼ Pound Unsalted butter, sliced
    1 Tbs All-purpose flour
    1 gallon Dark chicken stock
    Pinch Sugar
    Splash Sherry vinegar
    Salt/Pepper, to taste


    1. Melt butter in a large heavy bottom pot. Add onions and gently cook for about one hour or until deeply caramelized.
    2. Add flour and cook 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer for one hour, reducing by about 1/4th.
    3. Add a little sugar and vinegar. Adjust seasoning.

    How to Serve

    12 oz onion soup, hot
    1-2 pieces French baguette crouton
    2 slices Gruyère, sliced
    ¼ cup Gruyère, grated

    1. Ladle the hot soup into a lion’s head tureen or French onion soup crock.
    2. Set the crouton on top of the soup and place a slice of cheese on top.
    3. Spread the grated Gruyère on the sliced cheese and place another slice on top of that.
    4. Bake under a broiler for about six to eight minutes or until the cheese is browned and the soup is bubbling.
    5. Serve immediately.

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    news/restaurants-bars

    NYT best dishes

    Houston Mediterranean restaurant makes NY Times' best desserts list

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 9, 2025 | 3:00 pm
    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen exterior
    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen/Facebook
    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen is the only Houston restaurant on either list.

    The New York Times included four Texas restaurants among its favorite dishes of 2025. Divided into two lists — The 23 Best Restaurant Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2025 and The 14 Best Restaurant Desserts We Ate Across the U.S. in 2025 — the dishes are:

    • Bad Honey Bunny at Mercado Sin Nombre (Austin)
    • Ketan Hitam at Yeni’s Fusion (Austin)
    • Konafa Naama at Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen (Houston)
    • Picadillo Macaroni and Cheese at 2M Smokehouse (San Antonio)

    Times food writer Priya Krishna, who authors the entries for all four Texas dishes, traveled to far west Houston to visit Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen. “The konafa, a signature here, arrives with a molten layer of cheese under a sticky-sweet layer of golden, nutty semolina. The craft is evident, the konafa gone in a few bites,” she writes.

    Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen Konafa Naama Don't skip dessert at Sayad Mediterranean Kitchen.KSayad Mediterranean Kitchen/Facebook

    In Austin, Krishna praises the rice pudding at Yeni’s Fusion. “This barely sweet version, lush with coconut milk, aromatic with pandan and as soothing as warm porridge, is the gentlest way to end a meal,” she states.

    Already hailed as one of America’s best breakfast spots by Bon Appetit, Krishna singles out a honeybun at Mercado Sin Nombre. “The coiled honey bun at this semi-clandestine cafe looks almost cartoonishly perfect, and the heady scent of cardamom and honey hits you before you even take a bite. Somehow, it tastes every bit as plush and elegant as it appears,” she writes.

    The picadillo mac and cheese at 2M Smokehouse showcases how the San Antonio restaurant incorporates Mexican flavors into traditional Texas barbecue. “Imagine Hamburger Helper, but spicier, punchier and even more luxuriously creamy. It’s not easy to one-up the singular, thickly spiced brisket here, but the picadillo mac and cheese — which runs as an occasional special — holds its own and then some,” Krishna writes.

    The New York Times regularly shines its spotlight on Texas restaurants, In September, it named four establishments — ChòpnBlọk (Houston), Isidore (San Antonio), Lao’d Bar (Austin), and P Thai’s Khao Man Gai & Noodles (Austin) — to its list of America’s 50 Best Restaurants.

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