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    twinkle, twinkle little stars

    Houston's rising star chefs shine in national magazine's 2025 awards

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 22, 2025 | 10:04 am

    A national publication that looks for rising stars in the food world has revealed its latest picks for Houston. In all, StarChefs is giving its Rising Stars Awards to 22 Houston chefs, restaurateurs, and beverage professionals.

    StarChefs Henry Lu and Evelyn Garcia

    Courtesy of StarChefs

    Henry Lu and Evelyn Garcia of Jun.

    The winners, listed below, constitute a mix of prominent names in Houston’s restaurant scene — including a James Beard Award winner, a Food & Wine Best New Chef whose restaurant holds a Michelin star, and at least 10 former winners of various CultureMap Tastemaker Awards — as well as promising culinary talent who may still be flying a little under the radar. In all, StarChefs conducted interviews and tastings with more than 100 chefs to determine its 22 winners. Ideally, the recognition leads to more national attention and paves the way for other awards such as James Beard nominations or Food & Wine Best New Chef.

    “Houston’s hospitality scene thrives on collaboration instead of competition,” StarChefs managing partner Will Blunt said in a statement. “Houstonians spend a greater share of their food budgets in restaurants than residents of any other American city, fueling a community that resists homogenization — where smoke pits stand beside molinos, Gulf fisheries connect directly to the plate, and pioneering pop-ups push the industry forward. Together, they show how Houston is not only holding its own nationally but also reshaping what it means to be a modern American food and beverage city.”

    This is the third time StarChefs has recognized Houston, joining classes in 2011 and 2019. Looking back, the organization has a pretty solid track record. The 2019 class includes Bobby Matos, who now oversees all four of Ford Fry’s Houston restaurants (State of Grace, La Lucha, Superica, and Little Rey); Tommy Ho, the general manager of Anvil and Refuge; and Nick Wong, whose new restaurant Agnes & Sherman is one of this year’s buzziest debuts. The 2011 class includes cornerstones of the Houston dining scene such as Manabu Horiuchi (Kata Robata and Katami), James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd (Southern Smoke Foundation), and Bobby Heugel (Thorough Fare Hospitality).

    StarChefs will celebrate its new class with a series of events that will be held from October 1-15. The magazine encourages Houstonians to visit the recognized restaurants and try signature items from each, such as the fried chicken at Jūn or the garlic chive pancakes at Street to Kitchen.

    In addition to the winners, StarChefs has designated two bonus stops: Tribute at the Houstonian hotel and Moon Rabbit, a Vietnamese restaurant in the Heights. During the two-week celebration, StarChefs will donate $3 from every Bò Kho Dip sandwich sold at Moon Rabbit to Houston nonprofit PX Project.

    2025 StarChefs Houston Rising Stars Award Winners

    Chefs

    • Evelyn Garcia and Henry Lu of Jūn
    • Joseph Boudreaux of Boo’s Burgers
    • Benchwan Jabthong Painter of Street to Kitchen
    • Christian Hernandez of Barbacana
    • Lucas McKinney of Josephine’s
    • Max Lappe and Jacques Varron of Baso
    • Adrián Torres of Maximo

    Restaurateurs

    • Sara and Martin Stayer of Nobie’s, The Toasted Coconut, Nonno’s Family Pizza Tavern, and The Road to Nowhere

    Game Changer

    • Nicolas Vera of Casaema

    Community

    • Emmanuel Chavez of Tatemó

    Concept

    • Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita
    • Ope Amosu of ChòpnBlọk

    Bakers

    • Maham Qureshi of Shakkar
    • Van Teamer of Pudgy’s Fine Cookies

    Bartender

    • Kristine Nguyen of Bludorn

    Pastry Chefs

    • Marie Riddle of Bludorn Hospitality Group
    • Micaela Victoria formerly of Goodnight Hospitality

    Pitmaster

    • Cooper Abercrombie of Bar-A-BBQ

    Ice Cream Maker

    • Josh Deleon of Underground Creamery

    Mentor

    • Justin Yu of Thorough Fare
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    Food trends

    Halal BBQ is booming in Texas, with Houston making a major contribution

    Associated Press
    Aug 25, 2026 | 4:30 pm
    Levant BBQ
    Levant BBQ
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    At 9 am on a scorching Saturday in June, nearly 100 people were already lined up outside Goldee’s BBQ, a small, wooden-shack restaurant in Fort Worth.

    First in line was 30-year-old Thanh Huynh, who had been sitting in a lawn chair on the joint’s rustic porch since 6:30 am.

    “I have, like, a whole list, and I’m going to spend lots of money here. It’ll be worth it,” he said, laughing while rattling off a long order of meats and sides from his phone’s Notes app as a sweet, smoky scent from nearby pits hung in the air.

    Opened in 2020 by a group of his friends, the restaurant was named the No. 1 barbecue spot in the state by Texas Monthly a year later, and then won a Bib Gourmand award from the prestigious Michelin Guide, given for “great food at a great value.”

    The restaurant serves classic Texas barbecue like craft pork belly, sausage, and ribs. But it also offers halal brisket, turkey, and lamb.

    "Halal" means meat raised and butchered in accordance with Islamic guidelines. It refers to the method in which the animals are slaughtered, one that focuses on humane treatment, cleanliness, and acknowledging the value of life — similar in concept to kosher food in Judaism.

    A growing number of halal places have opened around Fort Worth in recent years, and there are also non-halal restaurants that use halal beef, such as burger institution Kincaid's, the new Burger Vault in Keller, and the forthcoming Tick Tock Taco in Colleyville.

    Growing Texas trend
    At a time when Republican leaders are increasingly targeting the state’s growing Muslim communities, halal barbecue joints like Goldee’s are thriving in Texas. Across the state, Muslim pitmasters are gaining recognition for putting their own spin on one of Texas’ most iconic culinary traditions.

    At least a dozen barbecue spots now serve halal meats, including Yearby’s Barbecue & Waterice, run by Black Muslim couple CJ and Sabrina Henley, soon-to-be in Plano; and Levant Mediterranean BBQ, a restaurant with locations in Houston and Frisco that's bringing its menu of smoked beef and lamb to Sugar Land in late 2026 or early 2027. Truboy BBQ, which started as a mail order halal barbecue supplier, opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Missouri City last year.

    Goldee's Barbecue Goldee's Barbecue draws halal diners. Goldee's Barbecue/ Facebook

    “Now there are so many options, and for us to have highly rated barbecue, it’s a blessing,” said Haris Ghaffar, who drove an hour from Celina and stood in 90-degree weather for nearly two hours with a friend for the halal options at Goldee’s.

    Growing up in the 1990s, Ghaffar said a McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish sandwich was one of the few halal meals he could eat while dining out. Back then, halal food was seen as serving a small community. Today, it’s a multibillion-dollar industry that’s part of the American culinary mainstream, said James Beard Award‑winning food writer Farhan Mustafa, who wrote about the rise of American halal barbecue for Bon Appétit magazine in 2025.

    “Halal food is American food,” said Mustafa, who is based in Seattle. “It belongs on your plate. It belongs in the casual chat. It belongs in hip hop tracks. It’s the most American thing there is.”

    Mustafa said Muslims are part of a growing list of communities putting their stamp on Texas barbecue. “Whether they’re first, second or third-generation Muslims or Muslim Americans or just Americans, they’re bringing what they know and what excites them,” he said.

    More than salt and pepper
    Texas barbecue is typically defined by salt-and-pepper brisket and pork ribs, but this new crop of halal pitmasters are adding inventive twists, often based on their own family heritages.

    Zain Shafi, a pitmaster and co-owner of Goldee’s, previously ran Sabar Barbecue, a food truck that offered Pakistani-infused halal dishes, such as brisket with rub that included spices like bay leaf and coriander.

    Sabar was nominated for Best BBQ in CultureMap's 2025 Tastemaker Awards, and made the list of Texas Monthly's Top 50 Barbecue Restaurants of 2025. The restaurant was also featured in a recently published BBQ book Texas BBQ: The Art of Low and Slow. He closed Sabar in December 2025 after two years.

    Sabar BBQ Sabar Barbecue offered a Pakistani twist on BBQ. Sabar Barbecue

    Shafi brought tandoori smoked turkey to Goldee’s menu. And sourcing halal cuts, he said, was a natural choice because they are “the highest quality” meats.

    Goldee’s chef and part owner Nupohn Inthanousay also blends his Laotian heritage, serving a smoked Lao “sai oua” sausage with sticky rice and a fiery, tangy dipping sauce.

    At Kafi BBQ in Irving, owner Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi brings halal Wagyu beef and Iraqi spices to classic Texas barbecue, challenging what he said is the “traditional old guard of Texas barbecue.”

    “My goal at Kafi BBQ is to make the best barbecue in Texas,” Abdul-Kafi said. “I have not been shy about that at all, and making the best barbecue in Texas does not necessarily have to include pork.”

    A former Silicon Valley tech worker, he moved to Texas six years ago in search of a Muslim community. On weekends in his backyard, he smoked brisket for friends. By 2024, he bought a smoker and opened Kafi BBQ.

    He said he spent months testing and perfecting recipes and finding local producers. Abdul-Kafi attributes his obsession with crafting a stand-out menu to the Islamic concept of “Ihsan”— an Arabic term meaning doing something with excellence for the sake of God.

    On a Sunday afternoon this summer, the restaurant’s red booths were packed with diners, drawn to menu items like the 13-spice Wagyu brisket, pomegranate-glazed beef belly burnt ends and Iraqi-inspired spicy beef sausage.

    “That sausage, I’d probably put it at the top sausage I’ve ever had, and we eat barbecue a lot. This place is unique,” said Jonathan Tate, a Fort Worth resident who came to Kafi BBQ with a friend after reading about it on a Facebook foodie group.

    “I don’t necessarily have to have it halal, but it’s nice to know they took good care of the food, the meat,” his friend Jon Sklar said, before going back in line to order oxtail.

    Kafi BBQ Meat at Kafi BBQ in Irving. Kafi BBQ

    'We love barbecue'
    Although political rhetoric against Muslims in Texas has become increasingly hostile — some GOP lawmakers even discussed a ban on halal food at a conference this month — pitmasters like Abdul-Kafi see the rise of halal barbecue as an effective counterargument.

    “It’s an example of exactly the opposite of what the Islamophobes talk about, right?” he said. “They say, ‘oh, Muslims don’t integrate, they stay alone, they don’t help society and all this stuff.’ And it’s like, I’m sitting here contributing to the most well-known cuisine of Texas.”

    One of the diners at Kafi BBQ, Houston native Muhammad Sohail, 23, said the restaurant reflects who he is — a proud Texan and Muslim. “This place is super important because I can see halal within the culture of Texas, which is my culture at this point,” Sohail said. “We love the food. We love meat. We’re Muslims and we love barbecue.”

    After finishing a big lunch with 10 relatives, Areeba Ali, a Dallas native of Indian heritage, said the restaurant’s appeal cuts across communities, which she said is evidence that halal barbecue isn’t a niche but resonates broadly with Texans. “If you look around in the restaurant, you see everybody in there — it’s not just one demographic in there,” Ali said.

    For Mustafa, that success is ultimately a testament to the resilience of Muslim American communities.

    “No matter how much they try to erase us, our food is here to stay,” he said. “You will see the power of just good food and the fact that most people really seem to understand that this is just as American as anything else.”

    ---

    This story was written and produced by Religion News Service and distributed by The Associated Press. It also includes information from the CultureMap archives.

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