This summer, a restaurant I’ve been waiting on for a long time finally opened its doors — and man, it was worth the wait. Latuli is here, and after a few visits, I can say it’s firing on all cylinders.
Latuli is co-founded by Allison Knight and chef Bryan Caswell, and the space itself is gorgeous — warm, inviting, and just feels good to sit in. But what really makes me happy is seeing Bryan back in the kitchen, turning out new dishes while also reimagining some of his classics. The menu is designed so every visit feels like a new experience. Want impeccably-sourced seafood? Done. Craving pastas or steaks? Easy.
Here’s what we had last time but I could go here ten more times and order completely different things and not feel like I missed anything. The menu is outstanding!!
- Bread service: Parker House rolls and cornbread with jalapeño and roasted poblano jelly and whipped sorghum butter (don’t skip it).
- Gulf shrimp spring rolls with hot-and-sweet sauce.
- Greener Pastures chicken: Absolutely worth seeking out.
- Wagyu barbacoa: Rich, tender, perfect.
And we wrapped it up with mignardises — peanut butter truffles, macarons, and madeleines. A perfect ending
The other thing that made me grin that night? Seeing Jeb Stuart running the wine program. I’ve known Jeb forever and have always loved his style, and the list he’s put together here just works. It feels like the food and wine are in conversation with each other — exactly how it should be.
When I look at a wine list, I want thoughtful options at every price point. Jeb nailed it. You could start with a few bottles of bubbly for the table — you don’t have to go all-in on 2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne (though you absolutely wouldn’t be wrong if you did). Try the 2018 Roebuck Blanc de Noir from Sussex, England — yes, I said sparkling wine from England — and watch your friends think you’re brilliant when it hits the table.
For something crisp and racy with snapper carpaccio or mussels steamed in Shiner Bock, grab a bottle of Alphonse Mellot “La Moussière” Sancerre. Feeling a little richer in style ? The Hilt Estate Chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills is one of my favorites.
If you’re ordering the Greener Pastures chicken (you should) and your buddy gets the flat iron steak with brown butter mushrooms, arugula, and pickled peppers (plus add the Batata Brava, trust me), go with Pinot Noir from Roar in Santa Lucia Highlands, Bruno Rocca Barbaresco, or — if you’re feeling bold — a Ridge Monte Bello Cab.
This wine list is just right. It’s thoughtful, balanced, and makes every dish shine. I see a lot of future nights with my wife Lindsey and me sitting at the bar, exploring this menu and wine list, and just being happy that Bryan, Allison, and Jeb built this place for us to enjoy.
I hope you love it as much as we do
Photo by Hasan Yousef
Sommelier Jeb Stuart is in charge of Latuli's wine program.
