People come, people go

3 talented top chefs' big moves heat up Houston's restaurant scene

Houston chefs are always on the move. Jobs may come and go, but the steady pace of openings and expansions means plenty of opportunities for those with proven track records.

Recently, three establishments announced they have new leaders in their kitchens. Let's take a quick spin through the latest hirings.

Chef Brandi Key has joined Dish Society's parent company, Five 12 Restaurant Concepts, as director of culinary operations. Best known for her time with Clark Cooper Concepts, Key opened a number of successful restaurants including Coppa Osteria, SaltAir Seafood Kitchen, Punk's Simple Southern Food, and The Kitchen at The Dunlavy. After a brief stint with Lasco Enterprises (The Tasting Room, Max's Wine Dive), Key became the executive chef for Alice Blue in The Heights, a position she left in late 2020.

At Five 12, her responsibilities will include creating new menu items and implementing seasonal changes for Dish Society, the farm to table neighborhood restaurant that opened its sixth Houston-area location in December. In addition, she'll work with owner Aaron Lyons to develop new concepts that will open later this year.

“My passion is teaching and in helping the people around me become the best they can be, and now is the perfect time to do this," Key said in a statement. "COVID has shined a bright light on the industry, and has given me the viewpoint of never wanting to be stagnant or complacent. I want to keep growing, and as much as I loved what I was doing, this is an opportunity for a fresh start with goals I’m super excited about.”

Kenneth Hamilton has joined East End seafood restaurant Acadian Coast as executive chef and co-owner. The veteran chef has worked at a number of area establishments, including Helen Greek Food & Wine, Arthur Ave., and Blanco Tacos & Tequila.

Hamilton's affiliation with Acadian Coast allows the restaurant to participate in Houston's Black Restaurant Week, which takes through April 11. The restaurant's BRW menu includes shrimp and grits, panko fried boudin balls, and the jumbo lump crab cakes that made Texas Monthly's recent best new restaurants list.

On a sadder note, chef Billy Kin has parted ways with Hidden Omakase. Formerly of Blackbird Izakaya, Kin opened the Galleria-area restaurant in December to showcase a 12-course, Japanese-inspired tasting menu. Niki Vongthong (Aqui, Uchi), who was initially presented as Kin's co-chef, will now lead the kitchen in the intimate, 14-seat restaurant.

"The team at Hidden Omakase would like to extend a grand thank you to Chef Billy Kin. It is with our greatest appreciation that we are reluctantly wishing him the best on his newest endeavors as he opens the stage for Chef Niki to shine and lead our team," the restaurant wrote on Instagram. "We value your efforts and culinary expertise that assisted with launching Hidden Omakase and hope to have you back in our kitchen soon!"

Niki Vongthong has taken over for Billy Kin at Hidden Omakase.

Courtesy of Hidden Omakase

Niki Vongthong has taken over for Billy Kin at Hidden Omakase.

chefs

let's go tacos

Houston taqueria's 2 new locations will serve cocktails by Anvil owner

Photo by Dylan McEwan

Chef Maribel Gomez, Tacos A Go Go founder Sharon Haynes, and Anvil owner Bobby Heugel.

A staple Houston taqueria will open two new locations before the end of the year. Tacos A Go Go is moving its Heights location and adding a new outpost in Briargrove/Memorial.

The restaurant has claimed the former Lola Neighborhood Diner (1102 Yale St.) and Killen’s STQ (2231 S. Voss Rd.) spaces for the new restaurants, which are scheduled to open in late 2025. As both of these locations are substantially larger than either Tacos A Go Go’s current Heights location on White Oak Dr. or its original location in Midtown, they will offer larger kitchens with room to prepare family packs from sister concept Fajitas A Go Go and to make fresh corn and flour tortillas throughout the day.

Both new locations will offer bar seating — a first for Tacos A Go Go. Adding bars means serving cocktails, To create a cocktail menu, founder Sharon Haynes turned to Anvil owner Bobby Heugel, who is a longtime Tacos A Go Go customer. Known for businesses such as Anvil, Refuge, and his former agave bar The Pastry War, Heugel’s cocktail menu will take inspiration from Mexican cocktails and ingredients and utilize tequilas and mezcals from family-owned distilleries.

“I’ve always wanted to have a real bar inside Tacos A Go Go with margaritas, mezcal and Mexican cocktails. These two locations have the space for it, and when Bobby offered to help, we knew it was meant to be," Haynes said in a statement."

“I’ve been a fan of Tacos A Go Go for nearly 20 years, so this project is especially exciting for me,” Heugel added. “I’m working to bring the same creativity and care their team puts into the food to the bar program, so guests enjoy an experience that feels just as fun and delicious as the tacos.”

Both restaurant will serve Tacos A Go Go’s familiar menu. Led by chef and co-owner Maribel Gomez, it includes street-style tacos with fillings such as carne guisada, pastor, picadillo, and barbacoa. In addition, the restaurant offers breakfast tacos all day and more elevated options such as grilled shrimp and smoked brisket. Non-taco options include burritos, quesadillas, and salads.

“I came to this country in 1991 with a dream of cooking the food I grew up with,” Gomez said. “To share those recipes here, in a place that has become my community, is a dream come true. Thirty years later, I’m proud to be doing what I love and grateful for the chance to bring people together with food that reminds me of home and hopefully makes them feel at home, too.”

Tacos A Go Go will announce grand opening plans for both locations in the weeks to come.

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