Squable
By recruiting chef Mark Clayton and baker Drew Gimma to lead the kitchen, Justin Yu and Bobby Heugel have created an ambitious neighborhood restaurant that mixes carefully prepared cuisine with some of the best bread being baked in Houston. For example, a salad of deliciously ripe tomatoes gets a little added crunch from breadcrumbs, and a challenging sounding dish of marinated mussels and beans gets tied together by a thick piece of grilled sourdough. Even dishes without bread — say the baked sweet potato that comes with crunchy nuggets of pork or a delicate crudo — deliver vibrant flavors.
Knowledgable servers can explain the details of each dish (when prompted), and the bar turns out consistently well-executed cocktails. Justin Vann's wine list skews towards classic varietals that pair well with the food.
