Lyle Bento, along with chef de cuisine JD Woodward and sous chef Patrick Feges, bring the same playful sense of experimentation that all three chefs honed during their respective stints at Underbelly. But here, the menu is more explicitly Southern. The restaurant makes good use of the fryer for okra, pork cracklings, and a shrimp and grits croquette, and the smoker turns out beef belly burnt ends and braised smoked beef leg. More delicate fare includes triple-cream Brie wrapped in phyllo and served with peaches or a cucumber and tomato salad with deviled egg. For dessert, bourbon balls live up to their name — lots of boozy kick with just the right amount of sweetness. House cocktails are priced at a reasonable $10, and there’s a well-chosen selection of craft beer.