Former Flo Paris owner Rabih Salibi has left the bakery business and opened this French seafood restaurant in the space that was once home to Corner Table. Despite the name, Salibi’s menu isn’t all that salmon-focused, although it does treat that fish well. The entree of grilled salmon in cognac sauce has a supremely crispy skin, and a house-cured gravlax nailed the smoky-salty balance. That cognac sauce, as well as the champagne cream sauce included with another dish, are typical of Salibi’s approach to the menu.
Unfortunately, the salmon tartare is one dish where the old school approach fell flat. Rather than the raw preparation implied by its name, it’s more of a creamy salmon salad. Thankfully, a delightfully boozy baba au rhum dessert erases almost any memory of previous missteps.