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    Catching up with John Besh

    New Orleans chef John Besh talks top recipes and plans for a Houston restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 6, 2015 | 11:00 am

    At this point in his career, John Besh needs little introduction. As both a chef and restaurateur with an interest in 12 concepts, Besh serves the flavors of New Orleans to thousands of people every day. While his days of cooking on a line are mostly over, his interest in feeding people remains as strong as ever — something that's reflected in the four cookbooks he's written.

    His latest work is titled Besh Big Easy: 101 Home-Cooked New Orleans Recipes. Unlike his award-winning first book My New Orleans that focuses on chef-style dishes from his restaurants, Big Easy focuses on home cooking and one pot dishes. Even its physical structure as a paperback is designed to make it easy for people to use in their kitchen rather than feature on their coffee tables.

    Besh promoted his third book, Cooking From the Heart, with a sold-out, 200 person dinner at Underbelly. In keeping with Big Easy's more casual tone, his two Houston stops for this tour will be more low key and are open to the public. Catch him Sunday at River Oaks clothing store Billy Reid from 4 to 8 pm and Monday at the Kinkaid School from 5:30 to 8:30 pm as part of the school's annual book fair.

    At Billy Reid, attendees may also purchase the apron that chef and designer collaborated on; a portion of those proceeds will benefit the John Besh Foundation that provides scholarships, grants and loans for people in New Orleans to attend top culinary schools.

    Before he arrives in Houston, Besh spoke to CultureMap about his book, whether he wants to open a restaurant in Houston and his big project at the famous Pontchartrain Hotel.

    CultureMap: What is Besh Big Easy about?

    John Besh: Over the years, my cooking has changed. When I was a young chef, it was all about ingredients and making things more complicated than they needed to be. As I’ve matured, I’ve focused on the cooking I grew up on . . . Cooking much more like my mother and grandmother did than maybe a chef per se.

    That’s what the book is all about. Most of it is one pot cooking. When I was young and intemperate, I soiled every pot, and the house looked like a disaster zone. No one is going to clean up after me anymore.

    CM: How did you decide on this topic?

    JB: My first book, My New Orleans, was a great big hit. It’s big in size and it’s just a beautiful book. But I found people were keeping it on the coffee table. I really wanted a book like my mother’s old River Roads cookbook where someone is going to take and test and try. Creating a resource for this great cuisine that Houston and New Orleans share.

    CM: What are your favorite recipes in the book?

    JB: Most of them are those kind of one pot things. I’d have to say I never have a family get together, and we’re about to have a bunch of them, without having a big bowl of crab meat salad. Take some bread, toast it off. I always have the salad next to toasted baguettes.

    Another one would be the corn and crab fritters, shrimp remoulade. These are part of the best repertoire when you come over to our house.

    I love gumbos and jamalayas, because it requires real cooking. You have to watch it simmer for about 30 minutes, and then it gets better as you go along. I love them, because it tells us who we are and where we’re from.

    CM: Do you think you'll open a restaurant in Houston?

    JB: It’s always been a dream. I’m only growing . . . It isn’t set it stone, but I have a couple people who love Houston and want to move back. But there’s nothing in the works just yet.

    CM: Could I put in a request for a Houston location of Shaya (an award-winning, modern Israeli restaurant)?

    JB: I was hoping Alon would want to take Shaya over there. I know my friends in Houston would love that. I love it so much. It’s really tremendous to see that he’s cooking from the heart, and people have received it so well.

    CM: Do you know what’s next?

    JB: Not a day goes by that I’m not thinking about what can we do, what can we do better. One thing that’s happened recently is we just signed a deal to take over the food and beverage of The Pontchartrain Hotel. That’s taking up a lot of our time. It’s the home of the famed Caribbean Room . . . that delivered so many classic recipes.

    Working on that with chef Bryan Landry who I’m partnered with at Borgne. We have a lot of delicious things planned. My partners in the bakery Willa Jean, Kelly Fields and Lisa White, will be helping us as well. That’s going to be a lot of fun. It’s a New Orleans icon. I love the fact that I get to be a steward and help resurrect those memories.

    Besh also collaborated with designer Billy Reid on this apron.

    John Besh Billy Reid apron
    Photo courtesy of the Besh Restaurant Group
    Besh also collaborated with designer Billy Reid on this apron.
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    Where's Eric Eating

    CultureMap editor's 11 favorite dishes at Houston restaurants in October

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 3, 2025 | 5:43 pm
    Paulie's restaurant bucatini
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    The bucatini Amatricana at Paulie's brings the heat.

    As both the city editor of CultureMap and the host of a bi-weekly podcast about Houston restaurants, I am one of those fortunate people whose literal job responsibilities include regularly dining at restaurants. Even though I’m not (and never have been) a food critic, it’s impossible to experience these places without forming some opinions about them.

    A couple of years ago, I began documenting my favorite dishes of the month on Instagram. I thought it would be helped for people who looked at my feed as they made their own decisions about which new restaurants to try. Since then, local influencers and food writers have put their own spin on the format.

    In addition to those posts, I’m going to share a few thoughts about my picks here on CultureMap. These are not reviews (at all); instead, they’re meant to be a quick summary of what I liked about each dish.

    My rules are simple. First, expect approximately 10 dishes each month. Critically, it’s only one dish per restaurant, and no restaurant will appear twice in the same month. Generally, they’ll be new restaurants in the Houston area, but I’ll always mix in an old favorite or two — and I reserve the right to include other parts of Texas when something particularly excellent grabs my attention.

    Finally, they’re not presented in any particular order. I do not have a No. 1 favorite dish. I like something about all of them.

    Here are my favorite dishes I ate at Houston-area restaurants in October.

    Bucatini Amatriciana at Paulie’s
    The Montrose staple makes all of its pastas in house, including this tube-shaped style that’s paired with an unapologetically spicy Amatriciana sauce. I add shrimp both for a little protein and to cut the heat a little. With the restaurant set to close December 31, I’ll certainly be back for another order as well as my other favorites on the menu.

    Fried squash blossom taco at Late August
    Part of the restaurant’s recently-introduced, seven-to-nine-course tasting menu, the crispy squash blossom is paired with lettuces from Lucille’s 1913’s farm and wrapped in a tortilla made with nixtamalized blue corn. Earthy, crunchy, and a little spicy, it’s a compelling combination of flavors that shows off chef executive chef Sergio Hidalgo’s skills that helped the Midtown restaurant retain its place in the Michelin Guide.

    Mezze at March
    Speaking of tasting menus at restaurants in the Michelin Guide, one-star March includes this impressive spread of small bites as part of its Levant menu. If it only included the freshly baked pita and caviar, that would have been enough, but the ability to mix and match the various bites — everything from a sweet-and-spicy muhamara to a tangy cheese and briny olives — added an interactive, almost playful element that matches the restaurant’s light-hearted approach to contemporary fine dining.

    Wonton soup, grilled beef spring roll, and Vietnamese egg rolls at Kim Son
    Before the restaurant closed on October 12, I put it one last to-go order that featured three items I’ve been enjoying for more than 30 years. Most of all, I’ll miss the wonton soup for being the perfect source of salty, savory comfort any time I felt a little under the weather or wanted to be warmed up on a cold day.

    Stone crab and cold seafood at Truluck’s
    Recently reopened after a two-month renovation, the Galleria-area steakhouse is once again serving its signature stone crab. While the days of all-you-can-eat are gone, the sweet, briny crab remains as compelling as ever.

    Barbecue tray at Redbird BBQ
    Admittedly, Port Neches isn’t in the Houston area, but this barbecue restaurant, ranked No. 4 in the state by Texas Monthly, is worth the 100-mile drive. Go for the hot honey ribs, the expertly-rendered brisket, the Persian-style koobideh sausage, the dinner rolls — well, all of it, really. And save a little room for banana pudding.

    Capellini with lobster at Coltivare
    While every visit to this Heights staple should always include its signature black pepper spaghetti, those who eschew its other pastas are missing out. The thing, delicate noodle allows the lobster’s natural sweetness to shine, as do the herbs and lemon in the sauce. Given the seasonal nature of most of Coltivare’s menu, go soon, since it might not be around much longer.

    Sea bass with frisee and smoked trout roe at Leo’s River Oaks
    Steaks are definitely the focus at this retro-styled establishment that won Best New Restaurant at the 2025 CultureMap Tastemaker Awards, but chef Kirk Thompson and his team cook a nice piece of fish, too. Here, the seared sea bass gets a boost of umami from the smoked trout roe, while a citrus beurre blanc adds acidity to cut the rich flavors.

    Ginger-scallion lobster at Fung’s Kitchen
    Prompted by my mother to choose “something different” for dinner, we headed outside the Loop to this Southwest Houston staple. One of the lobster preparations is always a reliable choice, as the wok-seared meat is never rubbery or overcooked and the delicate sauce brightens up the meat. The half Peking duck we split could’ve also made this month’s list.

    Chicken Milanese at Maximo
    Since taking over the kitchen earlier this year, chef Adrian Torres has continued to showcase his vision for modern Mexican cuisine at this Rice Village restaurant. Crispy, juicy, and paired with a spicy green spaghetti, the chicken Milanese is comforting, familiar, and utterly craveable. No wonder Michelin included Maximo as one of the city’s five new Bib Gourmand recipients.

    Wild mushroom pizza at Murray’s Pizza & Wine
    Newly opened in Memorial, this new concept from the owners of Leaf & Grain offers an elevated approach to pizza centered around a sourdough crust that’s fermented for three days. For this pie, a mix of mushrooms are roasted in wine and butter that’s further enhanced with a bright salsa verde and a garlic-cream sauce. The intensely savory flavors make for a compelling bite, especially when paired with the restaurant’s frozen Negroni.

    For more Houston food coverage, follow @ericsandler and @culturemaphou on Instagram and subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Paulie's restaurant bucatini

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    The bucatini Amatricana at Paulie's brings the heat.

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