What's Eric Eating Episode 71

West U pizza spot's speedy success, plus tasty Tex-Mex in The Heights

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Pizza Motus owner Will Gruy joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss his recently opened Roman-style pizzeria. The conversation begins with Gruy explaining the path he took from a brief career as a motorcycle racer to deciding to move to Houston after spending time in the city during an internship for business school.

Pizza Motus is the first Houston restaurant dedicated to serving pizza al'taglio, which is a style popular in Rome that's known for using dough with a longer fermentation period that yields a light, airy crust. Gruy explains that the style compromised a significant part of his diet when he lived in the city. Other than gaining access to a style of food he missed, Sandler asks Gruy why he decided to get into the restaurant business.

"I've worked in the industry both as a waiter and an investor," Gruy says. "It's just attractive. I recognize that it's dangerous, because it's a hard business. It's hard to get going, it's hard to keep going, and it's hard to keep going. But if it weren't hard, it wouldn't be fun."

Prior to Gruy's interview, Avondale Food & Wine co-owner Mary Clarkson joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Danton's decision to relocate and rebrand, Harry's Restaurant reopening, and Buffalo Bayou Brewery breaking ground in Sawyer Yards. Clarkson also expresses some strong opinions about The Roastery, a new cafe concept from four New York chefs that recently opened at the Bellaire H-E-B. In the restaurant of the week segment, the two hosts discuss their visits to Superica, the new Tex-Mex restaurant from State of Grace owner Ford Fry, and share some first impressions of Musaafer based on the chefs' appearance at a dinner hosted by Recipe for Success.

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A selection of dishes at Pizza Motus.

Photo by Becca Wright

A selection of dishes at Pizza Motus.

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tried and true

Houston restaurant known for steak and stone crab reopens after renovations

Usually, “closed for renovations” means a restaurant is gone for good, but every now and then an establishment actually pauses operations to freshen things up.

Count Truluck’s among the rare second group. After an approximately two-month break, the Galleria-area steak and seafood restaurant recently reopened its doors with an updated interior.

Part of a privately-owned mini chain of 12 restaurants, Truluck’s looked to the Mediterranean as a source of inspiration for its renovations. The main dining room now features a number of olive trees, alongside piano key tile floors, marble-inspired finishes, and updated leather booths. Tablecloths have been banished to make the room feel a little more casual.

As for the bar area, it has new chandeliers and smaller olive trees that tie it more closely to the main dining room. The restaurant also added a 56-seat private dining room that can be separated from the rest of the restaurant with movable screens.

Steaks, seafood, and Florida stone crab still form the heart of Truluck’s menu. Diners will also find Norwegian salmon, Chilean sea bass, and South African cold-water lobster that’s sourced from a sustainable fishery along the country’s South Coast. Perhaps inspired by the success of restaurants like Mastro’s, Truluck’s has added a little sushi to its menu for the first time.

Beverage options include more than 40 wines by-the-glass as well as on-trend offerings like mini martinis and zero-proof sips. Happy hour, available daily from 4-6 pm, includes half-off cocktails, discounts of select wines, and half-off oysters raw or roasted.

“As part of our mission, we’re never satisfied with simply maintaining the status quo,” Truluck’s beverage director Dave Mattern said in a statement. “This renovation is more than a facelift — it’s a rebirth. We wanted to preserve the soul of Truluck’s while creating an experience that resonates with longtime guests and appeals to a new generation and our upscale Uptown neighborhood that draws residents and visitors from around the world. Every detail, from the trees overhead to the wine in your glass, has been designed to elevate your evening.”

Courtesy of Truluck's

The restaurant serves steaks and lobster.

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