• Home
  • popular
  • EVENTS
  • submit-new-event
  • CHARITY GUIDE
  • Children
  • Education
  • Health
  • Veterans
  • Social Services
  • Arts + Culture
  • Animals
  • LGBTQ
  • New Charity
  • TRENDING NEWS
  • News
  • City Life
  • Entertainment
  • Sports
  • Home + Design
  • Travel
  • Real Estate
  • Restaurants + Bars
  • Arts
  • Society
  • Innovation
  • Fashion + Beauty
  • subscribe
  • about
  • series
  • Embracing Your Inner Cowboy
  • Green Living
  • Summer Fun
  • Real Estate Confidential
  • RX In the City
  • State of the Arts
  • Fall For Fashion
  • Cai's Odyssey
  • Comforts of Home
  • Good Eats
  • Holiday Gift Guide 2010
  • Holiday Gift Guide 2
  • Good Eats 2
  • HMNS Pirates
  • The Future of Houston
  • We Heart Hou 2
  • Music Inspires
  • True Grit
  • Hoops City
  • Green Living 2011
  • Cruizin for a Cure
  • Summer Fun 2011
  • Just Beat It
  • Real Estate 2011
  • Shelby on the Seine
  • Rx in the City 2011
  • Entrepreneur Video Series
  • Going Wild Zoo
  • State of the Arts 2011
  • Fall for Fashion 2011
  • Elaine Turner 2011
  • Comforts of Home 2011
  • King Tut
  • Chevy Girls
  • Good Eats 2011
  • Ready to Jingle
  • Houston at 175
  • The Love Month
  • Clifford on The Catwalk Htx
  • Let's Go Rodeo 2012
  • King's Harbor
  • FotoFest 2012
  • City Centre
  • Hidden Houston
  • Green Living 2012
  • Summer Fun 2012
  • Bookmark
  • 1987: The year that changed Houston
  • Best of Everything 2012
  • Real Estate 2012
  • Rx in the City 2012
  • Lost Pines Road Trip Houston
  • London Dreams
  • State of the Arts 2012
  • HTX Fall For Fashion 2012
  • HTX Good Eats 2012
  • HTX Contemporary Arts 2012
  • HCC 2012
  • Dine to Donate
  • Tasting Room
  • HTX Comforts of Home 2012
  • Charming Charlie
  • Asia Society
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2012
  • HTX Mistletoe on the go
  • HTX Sun and Ski
  • HTX Cars in Lifestyle
  • HTX New Beginnings
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2013
  • Zadok Sparkle into Spring
  • HTX Let's Go Rodeo 2013
  • HCC Passion for Fashion
  • BCAF 2013
  • HTX Best of 2013
  • HTX City Centre 2013
  • HTX Real Estate 2013
  • HTX France 2013
  • Driving in Style
  • HTX Island Time
  • HTX Super Season 2013
  • HTX Music Scene 2013
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2013 2
  • HTX Baker Institute
  • HTX Comforts of Home 2013
  • Mothers Day Gift Guide 2021 Houston
  • Staying Ahead of the Game
  • Wrangler Houston
  • First-time Homebuyers Guide Houston 2021
  • Visit Frisco Houston
  • promoted
  • eventdetail
  • Greystar Novel River Oaks
  • Thirdhome Go Houston
  • Dogfish Head Houston
  • LovBe Houston
  • Claire St Amant podcast Houston
  • The Listing Firm Houston
  • South Padre Houston
  • NextGen Real Estate Houston
  • Pioneer Houston
  • Collaborative for Children
  • Decorum
  • Bold Rock Cider
  • Nasher Houston
  • Houston Tastemaker Awards 2021
  • CityNorth
  • Urban Office
  • Villa Cotton
  • Luck Springs Houston
  • EightyTwo
  • Rectanglo.com
  • Silver Eagle Karbach
  • Mirador Group
  • Nirmanz
  • Bandera Houston
  • Milan Laser
  • Lafayette Travel
  • Highland Park Village Houston
  • Proximo Spirits
  • Douglas Elliman Harris Benson
  • Original ChopShop
  • Bordeaux Houston
  • Strike Marketing
  • Rice Village Gift Guide 2021
  • Downtown District
  • Broadstone Memorial Park
  • Gift Guide
  • Music Lane
  • Blue Circle Foods
  • Houston Tastemaker Awards 2022
  • True Rest
  • Lone Star Sports
  • Silver Eagle Hard Soda
  • Modelo recipes
  • Modelo Fighting Spirit
  • Athletic Brewing
  • Rodeo Houston
  • Silver Eagle Bud Light Next
  • Waco CVB
  • EnerGenie
  • HLSR Wine Committee
  • All Hands
  • El Paso
  • Houston First
  • Visit Lubbock Houston
  • JW Marriott San Antonio
  • Silver Eagle Tupps
  • Space Center Houston
  • Central Market Houston
  • Boulevard Realty
  • Travel Texas Houston
  • Alliantgroup
  • Golf Live
  • DC Partners
  • Under the Influencer
  • Blossom Hotel
  • San Marcos Houston
  • Photo Essay: Holiday Gift Guide 2009
  • We Heart Hou
  • Walker House
  • HTX Good Eats 2013
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2013
  • HTX Culture Motive
  • HTX Auto Awards
  • HTX Ski Magic
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings 2014
  • HTX Texas Traveler
  • HTX Cifford on the Catwalk 2014
  • HTX United Way 2014
  • HTX Up to Speed
  • HTX Rodeo 2014
  • HTX City Centre 2014
  • HTX Dos Equis
  • HTX Tastemakers 2014
  • HTX Reliant
  • HTX Houston Symphony
  • HTX Trailblazers
  • HTX_RealEstateConfidential_2014
  • HTX_IW_Marks_FashionSeries
  • HTX_Green_Street
  • Dating 101
  • HTX_Clifford_on_the_Catwalk_2014
  • FIVE CultureMap 5th Birthday Bash
  • HTX Clifford on the Catwalk 2014 TEST
  • HTX Texans
  • Bergner and Johnson
  • HTX Good Eats 2014
  • United Way 2014-15_Single Promoted Articles
  • Holiday Pop Up Shop Houston
  • Where to Eat Houston
  • Copious Row Single Promoted Articles
  • HTX Ready to Jingle 2014
  • htx woodford reserve manhattans
  • Zadok Swiss Watches
  • HTX Wonderful Weddings 2015
  • HTX Charity Challenge 2015
  • United Way Helpline Promoted Article
  • Boulevard Realty
  • Fusion Academy Promoted Article
  • Clifford on the Catwalk Fall 2015
  • United Way Book Power Promoted Article
  • Jameson HTX
  • Primavera 2015
  • Promenade Place
  • Hotel Galvez
  • Tremont House
  • HTX Tastemakers 2015
  • HTX Digital Graffiti/Alys Beach
  • MD Anderson Breast Cancer Promoted Article
  • HTX RealEstateConfidential 2015
  • HTX Vargos on the Lake
  • Omni Hotel HTX
  • Undies for Everyone
  • Reliant Bright Ideas Houston
  • 2015 Houston Stylemaker
  • HTX Renewable You
  • Urban Flats Builder
  • Urban Flats Builder
  • HTX New York Fashion Week spring 2016
  • Kyrie Massage
  • Red Bull Flying Bach
  • Hotze Health and Wellness
  • ReadFest 2015
  • Alzheimer's Promoted Article
  • Formula 1 Giveaway
  • Professional Skin Treatments by NuMe Express

    Fall Restaurant Openings

    Here are 39 exciting bars and restaurants coming soon to Houston

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 6, 2017 | 10:00 am

    In conversations with restaurant owners around town, it’s clear that people are pretty nervous about what the lingering effects of Harvey will mean for their businesses. Even a month after the storm, customer counts are down as diners are opting to save money by staying home and cooking.

    Despite fears about how long it will take the situation to return to normal, this fall offers a number of intriguing new restaurants. After all, most of these businesses have been in the planning stages since long before Harvey made landfall, and they have too much momentum to get derailed now.

    By any measure, 2017 has been a good one for new restaurants as homegrown establishments like Xochi, Oxbow 7, Riel, Star Fish, and others have joined forces with out of towners like 85°C Bakery Cafe, Chengdu Taste, Yauatcha, and Aqui to give diners lots of exciting new choices. Keeping up with it all is practically a full-time job.

    Usually, this article would only consider establishments that are likely to open before the end of the year, but this version takes a slightly longer view. With places like Agricole Hospitality’s projects in EaDo and Bosscat Kitchen’s new concept in the Heights pushed from fall to early 2018, it made sense to lengthen the timeline a bit.

    New concepts from local favorites

    Theodore Rex - James Beard Award winner Justin Yu’s replacement for Oxheart is a “modern bistro” with an a la carte menu, a 90 bottle wine list, and an all new interior. Reservations will be tough to score in the beginning, but the restaurant will reserve at least a couple tables and seats at its new bar for walk-in diners.

    Emmaline - Former Fleming’s operating partner Sam Governale, chef Dimitri Voutsinas, and creative director Ashley Putman have united to create this new restaurant that’s influenced by the neighborhood restaurants that Governale and Voutsinas experienced when they worked in New York. Slated for a “mid-fall” opening, Emmaline has completely transformed the former Teala’s space by expanding the patio and adding a second story balcony.

    Golden Bagels & Coffee - The Heights will finally get its own bagel shop when this new cafe opens in the next couple of months. Golden will serve a full range of bagels along with sandwiches, house cured fish, and a full coffee program created by partner Avi Katz.

    Flying Pho - Ninja Ramen owner Christopher Huang will give Houston its first taste of Hanoi-style pho — lighter and less sweet than the Saigon style served at other restaurants around — at this new restaurant in Garden Oaks. As the name implies, delivery will be a major component; customers will even be able to order a “hangover” package that comes with pain killers and Pedialyte.

    Agricole Hospitality - The owners of Coltivare, Revival Market, and Eight Row Flint have hatched an ambitious plan to open three concepts in the East Village development: Indianola will be a restaurant that serves “dishes from the American canon that one could comfortably partake of everyday;” Miss Carousel will be a bar that takes some of the pretension out of cocktails; and Vinny’s will be a pizza joint with a focus on delivery. Originally slated for fall, the project is now expected to open in early 2018.

    Goodnight Charlie’s - Master Sommelier David Keck may have spent years becoming a wine expert, but his first project with business partner Peter McCarthy will be this honky tonk where patrons are more likely to order a beer and a shot than a glass of vino. Slated to open in early December, the bar will feature live music, dancing, and a menu of tacos created by pop-up chef Alvin Schultz.

    Coral Sword - Blacksmith owners David Buehrer and Ecky Prabanto have teamed up with San Francisco Giants outfielder Hunter Pence and TV star Ming Chen to create a gaming-themed cafe that will open by the end of the year. Located in the same Eastside building at 1318 Telephone Road that houses East End Barber, Coral Sword will offer all the usual espresso beverages as well as room to play games and a podcast studio for gaming broadcasts.

    Maison Pucha Bistro - Veteran chef Manuel Pucha (Philippe, La Table) and his brothers, pastry chef Victor and sommelier/mixologist Cristian, are bringing an upscale-casual French restaurant to the former Stella Sola/Black & White space. Expected to open in November, the menu will pay homage to the brothers’ heritage by incorporating Ecuadorian seafood in savory dishes and chocolate in desserts.

    Night Market - Chinatown restaurateur Mike Tran and chef Rikesh Patel have converted their global curry concept into a Thai restaurant. After weeks of previewing dishes like crab fritters and roasted duck curry to Instagram, the revamped restaurant made its debut Tuesday night.

    Holman Draft Hall - Wooster’s Garden owners The Kirby Group have converted their nightclub VrSI into this beer-focused concept. Similar to sister concept Heights Bier Garten, Holman will feature 100 taps and a full kitchen.

    Lucienne - Located at the newly opened Hotel Alessandra downtown, this French fine dining concept is led by acclaimed chef Jose Hernandez (Triniti, Etoile, Radio Milano). The dinner menu features both four and six-course options ($55 or $75) with dishes that include a cauliflower-filled crepe in guyere sauce, lamb tartare, roasted squab, and, of course, Hernandez’s legendary desserts.

    Burger Libre - The team behind Gringo’s Mexican Kitchen is developing a new burger concept. Slated to open in January in La Porte, the restaurant will feature burgers made with in-house ground beef and a take on tacos dorado (aka, fried Jack in the Box tacos).

    Café Poêtes - Located on the western edge of Midtown near Oporto Fooding House, this new cafe aims to bring “the elegance of an old romantic world with the casual nature of a neighborhood eatery. If nothing else, having a new option for excellent eclairs will attract plenty of attention.

    Kulture - Marcus Davis, owner of Midtown staple The Breakfast Klub, will celebrate the diversity of African American cooking at this restaurant that pays tribute to “the cultural contributions of the diaspora from the continent of Africa thru the Caribbean to the southern U.S. Coast. Located in the Partnership Tower downtown, the restaurant will complete the transformation of Avenida Houston into the city’s newest restaurant row.

    Melange Creperie - Having closed its location at the Conservatory food hall downtown, the beloved crepe stand will finally have its own stand-alone, above-ground space at the newly opened Heights Mercantile development. When it opens October 16, the 1,400-square-foot restaurant will include a patio and space for private events.

    Nancy’s Hustle - Beverage expert Sean Jensen (Public Services, Hay Merchant) and chef Jason Vaughan (Chicago’s Hogsalt Hospitality Group) have kept mum on their plans for this restaurant in EaDo while working to launch Alice Blue. Given their resumes, whatever they’re planning will be worth watching.

    Eatalia - Admittedly, we don’t know much about this new Italian restaurant that will replace Briargrove favorite La Vista. However, considering it is related to Montrose staple Romano’s, the prospect of a sit-down, affordable Italian restaurant in a neighborhood that’s on the rise means it merits more attention.

    Barbecue Boom Continues

    Truth Barbeque - Pitmaster Leonard Botello IV is bringing the Brenham barbecue joint that Texas Monthly ranked 10th best in the state to Washington Avenue. Known for giving equal attention to its creative sides, including a particularly addictive corn pudding and mile-high cakes, as well as its carefully smoked meats, Truth shouldn’t have any trouble drawing interest when it opens early next year.

    Blood Bros. BBQ - The pop-up masters will bring their creative spin on Texas barbecue to the Bellaire triangle by the end of the year. Moving to a brick-and-mortar spot will allow them to expand the menu to include sandwiches, more sides, and specials like prime rib and quail.

    Feges BBQ - Pitmaster Patrick Feges and his wife, chef Erin Smith Feges, are working to open their first restaurant early next year. No word on an exact location yet, but a recent pop-up that featured Carolina-style whole hog served with a purple cabbage slaw, German potato salad, and roasted eggplant demonstrates the creative twists the duo will bring to barbecue.

    Pappas Delta Blues Smokehouse - After years of serving lean, mildly seasoned barbecue, Pappas Restaurants is finally joining the Central Texas trend. Located in Webster, this new restaurant will serve USDA Prime briskets from Creekstone Farms (just like Austin’s Franklin Barbecue) along with steaks and Southern comfort food. If the food coming out of the kitchen tastes as good as the images Pappas chef Michael Velardi has been posting to Instagram for the last few months look, Delta Blues will be the best barbecue joint south of Killen’s.

    Beaver’s - The promised “smoke signals” that indicate the original Beaver’s is reopening have yet to appear, but work has begun to transform the restaurant into more of an icehouse. A new design will feature garage doors and an expanded patio; on the menu, new shareable dishes will encourage diners to linger.

    Heavy hitters from out-of-town

    Superica - State of Grace owner Ford Fry will bring this Tex-Mex concept to the former Hunky Dory/Bernadine’s space in the first quarter of 2018. Fry, a Houston native, and culinary director Kevin Maxey (also a native Texan) developed the concept, which includes Tex-Mex staples like fajitas, enchiladas, and margaritas, along with a up-tempo vibe that will feature live music on the weekends.

    Eunice - Back in September, acclaimed New Orleans chef John Besh was confident that his Greenway Plaza restaurant would open by the end of the year, but no signs of construction at 2929 Buffalo Speedway may indicate the timeline has slipped a bit. When it does open, expect a menu inspired by chef-partner Drake Leonards’ South Louisiana upbringing in a lively setting created by local firm gin designs group.

    Mastro’s Steakhouse - Houstonians will have another option for satisfying our insatiable desire for a great steak at this upscale concept coming to the Landry’s-owned The Post Oak mixed-use development. All the usual steak, seafood, and side options come with a lively atmosphere that includes live music nightly in the lounge.

    BCK: Kitchen & Cocktail Adventures - Harvey has pushed this new project from the owners of Bosscat Kitchen & Libations into early 2018, but the work has begun to turn the former Glass Wall space into a new restaurant. BCK’s menu takes its inspiration from the owners childhoods: everything from Spaghetti O’s to a riff on a McDonald’s fried apple pie.

    Doris Metropolitan - Slated to open in the former Triniti space, this upscale steakhouse with locations in New Orleans and Costa Rica offers a twist on standard chophouse fare courtesy of Israeli-inspired dishes like artichoke-flower salad, lamb chops with tahini-yogurt salad, and calamari salad with eggplant and chickpeas. As for the beef, like Pappas Bros. and B&B Butchers, it’s all USDA Prime that’s dry aged in house.

    Pokeworks - The New York City-based poke chain known for its highly Instagrammable dishes opened its first Houston restaurant this week. Order a poke burrito — wrapped in rice and toasted seaweed — for maximum portability.

    Hurts Donut - The doughtnut shop known for its over-the-top, candy covered treats is coming to Katy. Follow the restaurant’s Facebook page for hints about its location and the chance to win free doughnuts.

    Rodeo Goat - Originally slated for this summer, the Dallas-based better burger joint will arrive in EaDo in mid-November. The menu features over 20 burgers, many of which utilize freshly ground beef from 44 Farms, along with a selection of craft beers and cocktails.

    Flying Fish - The popular Dallas-based seafood restaurant known for its first-rate fried catfish and cheeky Billy Bass Adoption Center will join the ever-growing mix of restaurants near 19th Street in the Heights in early 2018.

    SumoMaya Mexican-Asian Kitchen - The prospects for this Arizona-based restaurant ever opening in River Oaks District are starting to look grim. A representative describes the project as “on hold.”

    New locations from existing favorites

    Willie G’s - Along with moving from Post Oak Road to The Post Oak, the seafood institution will get a design and menu refresh to bring it more in line with contemporary tastes. Landry’s compares it to the beneficial changes made from Grotto on Westheimer to the stylish new version at the George R. Brown.

    Goode Co Kitchen & Cantina - This Tex-Mex restaurant — Goode Co’s first new concept since Armadillo Palace — mixes familiar favorites like fajitas, queso, and enchiladas with dishes that pay homage to the Goode family’s roots in South Texas (carnitas, green chile pork empanadas) and expertise in seafood (redfish on the half shell, campechana). One location has already opened in The Woodlands, but another will arrive soon in the Memorial area on the Katy Freeway.

    Cleburne Cafeteria - Work continues to rebuild the iconic Houston cafeteria, which was destroyed by a fire in August 2016. When it opens in the next few weeks, the new building will feature more seating, an expanded menu, and beer and wine.

    Dish Society - The third outpost of this casual neighborhood restaurant will arrive in the Memorial Green development by the end of the month. Expect the usual farm to table menu, along with a 1,300-square foot patio for basking in the sun.

    The Union Kitchen - The popular neighborhood restaurant will open its fifth outpost at Elan Memorial Park in Rice Military. As with the other four outposts, expect an eclectic, affordable menu backed up by a strong beverage program.

    Krisp - The crispy chicken sandwich shop that opened earlier this year in the Galleria area will add a second location on Shepherd Drive in The Heights. With a larger space than the original, Krisp plans to offer breakfast and brunch menus alongside its current offerings.

    Snooze: An AM Eatery - The Katy location of the brunch everyday chain will arrive on October 25. The Houston area’s fourth Snooze is scheduled to open at the Lowell Street Market development in the Heights by the end of the year.

    Agricole Hospitality's plans to open three concepts in EaDo has been pushed to 2018.

    Agricole EaDo rendering
    Courtesy image
    Agricole Hospitality's plans to open three concepts in EaDo has been pushed to 2018.
    listsopeningsnews-you-can-eat
    news/restaurants-bars
    series/where-to-eat-houston
    CULTUREMAP EMAILS ARE AWESOME
    Get Houston intel delivered daily.

    Notes from a chef

    Globe-trotting Houston chef reviews Noma's $1,500 Los Angeles pop-up

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 9, 2026 | 4:00 pm
    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles
    Courtesy of David Skinner
    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    [Editor’s note: When David Skinner, chef and owner of Kemah’s celebrated eculent and Ishtia restaurants, offered to share his experience eating at one of the world’s best restaurants, we said, of course. Read on for his experience at Copenhagen restaurant Noma’s pop-up in Los Angeles that took place this summer. Take it away, David.]

    The crab was alive a few minutes before I ate it.

    Just before service, the kitchen broke down a Dungeness crab and set it over open charcoal, the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind the smoke. It came to the table wreathed in dried pink pepper branches, with a butter sauce built on the same pepper. I've eaten crab all over the world — this was maybe the best crab ever.

    That was the first of 17 courses at Noma LA, and the best bite of the afternoon. Leading with your best shot is either confidence or a statement. By the end of lunch, I'd decided it was both.

    The residency had begun in turmoil. Founder René Redzepi stepped away from the residency the day it opened, following a news investigation into allegations of demeaning treatment of staff — conduct that had been discussed in industry circles for years. Protesters gathered at the gate that day. The kitchen, led by Pablo Soto, carried on through the residency's close on June 26.

    I went for lunch at the Paramour Estate, the 1920s Mediterranean mansion in Silver Lake that Noma called home for 16 weeks. For more than 30 years, I've traveled the world in search of culture, a little mystery, and always food, eating everywhere from strangers' kitchen tables to three-Michelin-star dining rooms.

    As the chef behind eculent and Ishtia in Kemah, I also eat with a cook's eye — which means I'll tell you what was brilliant and what was oversalted. Noma LA had a little of both, but after a half dozen meals at Noma over the past 10 years, I can say this one was a standout.

    The setup

    The logistics alone are remarkable. Noma relocated roughly 130 staff members and their families to Los Angeles and built a pantry sourced within 300 miles of the mansion. Lunch ran 17 courses over about four hours at $1,500 per person, including beverages and gratuity.

    Chef Soto greeted us at the entrance with the full kitchen staff, a Noma tradition. By the time I arrived, the protesters were long gone, and the brigade seemed to be cooking with a sense of relief.

    Rather than choose between the wine pairing and the nonalcoholic program, we asked our server, Mara, to mix the two course by course. She nailed it, moving from a sparkling rose-and-pink-pepper drink to a bright cherimoya lemonade to a 25-year-old Tony Coturri zinfandel from Glen Ellen that became the table's favorite pour.

    The standouts

    The crab. It opened the meal, and nothing that followed topped it. The pink pepper did double duty with the dried branches perfuming the shell, the butter sauce carrying a gentle heat — the sweet, smoky meat needed nothing else. Alongside came a 2022 Phelan Farm chardonnay from Rajat Parr's Cambria operation: white Burgundy in spirit, California in its bones.

    The cactus. Pickled tacinga cactus, marinated in Oaxacan mezcal and citrus and crowned with honeypot ants, arrived beneath a live cactus paddle with a eucalyptus handle.

    The acorn. A single braised acorn, glazed with black pepper, sat atop an uni custard made with Santa Barbara sea urchin and caviar in hoja santa oil. The server described it as a nod to California's Indigenous peoples. As a Choctaw, whose ancestors relied on acorns for thousands of years, I felt that one. It was also the most technically accomplished savory course of the meal.

    The seaweed and clams. Six varieties of Southern California seaweed with butter-kissed clams tasted like the coast itself. This is Noma at its best: not interpreting California so much as listening to it.

    The tuna eye. I've eaten cod eye at Noma in Copenhagen, but this version was way better. The kitchen removed the tough cornea, replaced it with a thin disk of kumquat, and served the eye chilled inside a ruby-red banana flower bract. Rich and gelatinous, it's eaten in one bite. When our table wondered aloud where the rest of all that tuna goes, Mara had the answer: family meal for the staff.

    The kelp mole. Grilled greens, a squash blossom stuffed with huitlacoche, and an artichoke on its stalk arrived with tortillas from Komal, one of Los Angeles's top heirloom molinos, paired with a mole built on kelp.

    Between the acorn, the cactus, and the mole, a question kept surfacing: what does it mean for a Danish kitchen to arrive in someone else's pantry and cook as though it has always been there? Some of these ingredients have fed Indigenous and Mexican cooks for centuries. Noma handled them with obvious respect and real curiosity. Sometimes, though, the line between homage and borrowing comes down to whether you're willing to say the name out loud.

    Dessert kept the surprises coming, including a macadamia custard served in a sunflower whose base turned out to be beeswax. The finale arrived as a bundle of ferns tied with string. Diners snip it open with tiny scissors to find a chocolate cookie and a fortune inside. Mine quoted Nietzsche: You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star.

    Nietzsche, at $1,500 a head, in a Silver Lake mansion, from a kitchen whose founder walked away on opening day while protesters stood at the gate. The kitchen knew exactly what it was doing.

    The full menu, course by course

    For those keeping score, here's the complete lineup.

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab
    Daylily crab dumpling — The rest of the crab, tucked inside a trumpet-shaped daylily with buds plumped in crustacean liquor. The flower dominated; the crab was the reason to eat it.
    Chilled lobster broth — Spiny lobster stock, dashi, and elderflower oil served chilled in the lobster's own coral-colored shell. A palate reset dressed as a course.
    Spot prawn with matcha — Served in real seaweed, the head filled with smoked pumpkin paste for sucking, the tail painted with matcha. Paired with the 2024 Verso from Caleb Leisure in Sebastopol.
    Sea urchin custard and braised acorn
    Cactus with mezcal
    Ragout of California botanicals — Seasonal greens, peas, and herbs in a warm, quiet preparation, tied together by a hint of horseradish.
    SoCal seaweed and clam
    Tuna neck — Minced tuna neck in a koji-inoculated steamed bun with the texture of suede, topped with translucent shards of dried chicken-stock skin. Paired with the 2000 Estate Zinfandel from Tony Coturri.
    Tuna eye
    Black pearl rice steamed in avocado leaf — Ringed with pistachio oil and scattered with dime-sized macadamia slices. Humble ingredients in the spirit of California great Jeremiah Tower.
    Morels with habanero and yuzu — Sierra Nevada morels on turkey-tail mushrooms over hot stones. Bright and spicy, but heavy on the salt.
    Greens and grilled artichoke in spiced kelp mole
    Cherimoya and lemongrass — A green cocoa butter shell shaped like a cactus, hiding a smooth cherimoya ice cream. A California fruit most California menus ignore.
    Macadamia milk custard and pistachio — Topped with heirloom Hong Kong kumquats from a handful of research trees that fruit four weeks a year, served in a beeswax-lined sunflower.
    Silver Lake fortune cookie — A Chiapas chocolate mousse cookie garnished with insects, hidden in a bundle of ferns you cut open with tiny scissors. Fortune included.

    The misses

    Not every course landed. Morels with habanero and yuzu were oversalted, and some presentations were delivered too quietly to catch the full story. At $1,500 a seat, the storytelling should be as confident as the cooking.

    The verdict

    Having now eaten Noma's traveling editions in Tulum and Los Angeles, I'll offer an opinion that may be unpopular in certain circles: the pop-ups are better than Copenhagen. Maybe it's the hunt for new ingredients, or the urgency of a 16-week run in a borrowed house. Whatever the reason, the results are hard to argue with. I put that theory to the test in August, when I returned to Noma on my birthday, three days after it reopened with Soto at the helm. More on that meal soon.

    Noma LA wasn't really a restaurant. It was an argument about a place, made in food, by people who flew 6,000 miles to make it. The argument was frequently brilliant, occasionally presumptuous, and closed with Nietzsche in a fortune cookie. On balance, it won.

    ----

    David Skinner is a James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Texas and the owner of eculent and Ishtia in Kemah. He also writes the culinary travel journal Destination Eater on Substack.

    David Skinner Noma Los Angeles

    Courtesy of David Skinner

    Pink pepper Dungeness crab.

    news-you-can-eatchefs
    news/restaurants-bars
    series/where-to-eat-houston
    CULTUREMAP EMAILS ARE AWESOME
    Get Houston intel delivered daily.
    Loading...