What's Eric Eating Episode 45

Popular chef has the rub on his Memorial hot spot, plus latest dining news

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Jonathan Levine joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Jonathan's the Rub. Last week, Levine celebrated the 10th anniversary of his popular Memorial-area restaurant.

The chef shares the circumstances that brought him to Houston 15 years ago and how Jonathan's has evolved over the years. He also describes the experiences that led to the restaurant's something-for-everyone menu.

Currently, Levine is working on opening a second location of Jonathan's in the Memorial Green development that's slated to open this summer. He discusses how the project came to fruition and his decision to work with consultants Linda Salinas and Shepard Ross to bring the new Jonathan's to life.

Most significantly, the new restaurant's menu will be informed by Levine's new interest in interior Mexican cuisine. Next month, Levine will travel to Mexico City and Oaxaca City to study the cuisine in order to better incorporate those influences into his cooking. What is it about Mexican food that intrigues him, Sandler asks.

"There's two things. The first thing is the combination of chiles. I'm using five and six chiles that I never heard of back east. It's amazing the different flavors, the different heat. And the cheeses, also," Levine says. "And then, I'm a big mole guy. I have to go to Oaxaca City, because it's the epicenter of mole. I'm going to try to incorporate those into new dishes. I am already. I've put specials on that I've mastered. Getting rave receptions. They're becoming our top-selling specials when we run them."

Prior to Levine's interview, local restaurant consultant Nathan Ketcham joins Sandler to discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Lee Ellis' surprising departure from Cherry Pie Hospitality, Pizaro's Pizza's plans to relocate its Memorial-area restaurant, and the annoucement that Denver's Guard and Grace steakhouse will open a location in downtown Houston next year. In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Ketcham share their first impressions of Feges BBQ, the newly opened barbecue joint in Greenway Plaza, and Ketcham offers a couple of restaurant tips from his recent visit to Seattle.

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A rendering of Jonathan's new location.

Jonathan's the Rub Memorial Green interior rendering

Image by Gensler

A rendering of Jonathan's new location.

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One Day Only

Chef of Michelin-starred Texas BBQ joint pops up at Houston crawfish favorite

Photo by Quit Nguyen

Join Lucas McKinney for a crawfish pop-up this Sunday, May 17.

The pitmaster behind one of Texas’ Michelin-starred barbecue joints will be in Houston for a one-day-only crawfish boil. Evan LeRoy, chef and co-owner of Austin’s LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, will be at Josephine’s this Sunday, May 17 from 2-6 pm.

Part of the restaurant’s Backyard Boil pop-up series, LeRoy and Josephine’s executive chef Lucas McKinney have collaborated on a four dishes that will be served at the pop-up, which will take place on Josephine’s patio. They are:

Smoked Crawfish Boil Sausage on a Stick: andouille flavored pork sausage with crawfish, corn, and potatoes
Brisket and Cheddar Croquettes: Chopped brisket and cheddar cheese in a creamy bechamel. Scooped, breaded in panko, and fried til crispy
Oysters on the Half Shell: Pickled Onion Mignonette, Smoked Jalapeno Salsa, Kimchi Elote
Smoked Salsa Macha with Beef Tallow: Guajillo, ancho, and arbol chiles, lime, soy, garlic, onion, pepitas, and pecans

The pop-up is part of LeRoy’s tour for his new book, New School Barbecue: Recipes for Next-Level Smoking and Grilling, which he co-wrote with Texas Monthly restaurant critic Paula Forbes. Released this week, the book contains almost 100 recipes for mains, sides, and desserts.

LeRoy & Lewis Evan Leroy ATX Evan LeRoy is coming to Houston this weekend. Photo by Briana Balducci

“Lucas asked me to participate in a crawfish boil this year, and it happened to line up with the release of the book, so I said yes,” LeRoy tells CultureMap. “The event format centers around a crawfish boil, along with some fried items and oysters, so it doesn't necessarily reflect the recipes in the book. Instead, we decided to bring a few dishes we’ve been working on over the past year or so, including the brisket and cheddar croquettes — which will definitely make it into my next cookbook.”

McKinney has already hosted pop-ups with the likes of ChòpnBlọk chef-owner Ope Amosu and Mike Pham of Trill Burgers.

“With these crawfish boils, I want each chef to bring their own perspective and let the menu reflect their personal style of cooking,” McKinney adds. “Events like this are really centered around community, collaboration, and introducing something fresh and exciting to Houston each time.”

LeRoy and Lewis has earned wide acclaim for its “new school” barbecue. In addition to being one of only four Texas barbecue joints to hold a Michelin star, it ranked No. 2 on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s 50 best barbecue joints. McKinney began patronizing the restaurant when his friend, pitmaster Cole Parkman, worked there.

“It’s incredibly good,” McKinney says. “Eating there feels like they’re telling you, ‘I know you think you like brisket, but this is what you should really like.’ I really respect that they’ve planted their feet firmly in the ground and committed to doing things differently. It all makes so much sense — and it’s delicious.”

Reservations (free) are required to attend the Backyard Boil at Josephine’s; both 2 pm and 4 pm seatings are available. Attendees will purchase food and drinks a la carte. Josephine’s regular menu will not be available at the pop-up. Copies of New School Barbecue will also be available for purchase.

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