No rain ain't all bad: Drought makes for richer wine at Messina Hof's 2011 Moonlit Harvest

The summer drought might be plaguing some Texas farmers, but it's had its benefits for the Messina Hof Winery and Resort in Bryan.

The winery is most recognized for its Papa Paulo Port, which Messina Hof patriarch Paul Bonarrigo expects to be especially good from this summer's crop of grapes. He told participants who made the trek for the 2011 Moonlit Harvest over the weekend that the diminished yield of grapes used in making the Port lends to richer, more condensed flavors.

Coming out for the Harvest is a truly participatory event. Attendees pluck or cut rows of Lenoir grapes before stomping them for use in the winery's 2013 vintage of Papa Paulo Port and stamping their wine-soaked footprint on a keepsake T-shirt.

 Our favorite was the Sophia Marie, a dry rosé that draws its name from the Bonarrigo's third-generation winemaker-to-be, granddaughter Sophie. 

 If you happen upon a particulary interesting or enormous cluster, participants are encouraged to enter it into the traditional Big Kahuna competition, which includes a talent competition. The frivolity is made a touch more formal by the presence of a priest, on-hand to bless the grapes each harvest. 

Throughout the nearly six-hour affair (which includes a sit-down dinner and tour), the hard work is rewarded with tastings of the winery's offerings.

Our favorite was the Sophia Marie, a dry rosé that draws its name from the Bonarrigo's third-generation winemaker-to-be, granddaughter Sophie. 

Also a special treat on our visit was the informal launch of Chip Hight's Messina Hof port-infused cigars, prototypes of which were available on the lakeside patio after dinner. 

The 2011 harvest will continue through August 20. Visit the Messina Hof website for more information and special events.