It's been a long time since I made the drive down to Pearland to visit Killen's Steakhouse. Now I know what I've been missing. On Sunday night chef/owner Ronnie Killen and his crew presented the six-course dinner that they served at the James Beard House in New York in December.
Top to bottom, it was one of the best meals I've eaten in Houston and a stunning example of how Texas steakhouse fare can be so much more than meat and potatoes.
Top to bottom, it was one of the best meals I've eaten in Houston and a stunning example of how Texas steakhouse fare can be so much more than meat and potatoes.
"We told the people in New York that these were the medium-sized Gulf shrimp and we couldn't fit the large ones on the plane," said master sommelier Guy Stout, who created the remarkable wine pairings, including a bright and sweet sancerre with the snapper and a buttery chardonnay with the shrimp and grits.
A third course of rich gumbo with house-cured pork enchanted, with a subtle heat that never felt overwhelming on the palate but slowly crept from my mouth up the jaw until my eyes were watering.
The Texan inspiration took a different turn with the Peking-style duck breast served with bok choy, a tiny dollop of mashed potatoes and a hoisin demi-glace— perhaps Killen was referencing Houston's vibrant Chinatown? The duck breast was so tender the knife was almost unnecessary, and the rich flavor of the protein and subtle sweetness of the hoisin suace made this course my favorite of the night.
But one more meat awaited: A tall portion of short rib first smoked and then cooked sous vide with a red wine demi-glace and topped with micro greens. According to Killen, diners at the James Beard house said that short rib has been a popular choice for presenting chefs recently, but that this version was the best they'd had. With a tender, fatty center, just a touch of smoke char, and the sweet touch of a bed of creamed corn, it was hard to disagree. Also exceptional was the Catena Alba Malbec that Stout served alongside it — bold and fruity, not dry.
For dessert Killen presented a trio of the restaurant's longtime fave desserts — carrot cake, chocolate-truffle cheesecake and the famous crème brulee bread pudding alongside a Texas Hills Vineyard moscato. I'm a big fan of the bread pudding generally, but last night it seemed a little dry and the carrot cake snuck in as my favorite sweet bite.
In New York, the James Beard crowd gave the chefs a standing ovation at the conclusion of the dinner, and the Pearland crowd was just as enthusiastic. Does there have to be a dichotomy between elegant, well-thought-out dishes and the kind of comfort food that crowds crave? Killen has proved that there doesn't.
