Zac Posen has long been known for his retro, sometimes fussy, styles. But his spring 2017 collection, unveiled at New York Fashion Week, is much simpler, more pared-down and down-to-earth. We're wondering if his time spent as a judge on Project Runway and as creative director of womenswear at the classic retailer Brooks Brothers has altered his outlook a bit and made his collection more approachable.
"For spring 2017 I envisioned a collection with the craftsmanship I am known for but made in technical fabrics to give it an airy feminine transparent and modern feel," he explained in his program notes."
It's certainly more modern, with some terrific takes on the classic moto jacket in such fabrics as bonded cotton or brocade, paired with short shorts and zipper-laden motocycle pants, and "booty shorts" in a variety of colorful jacquards.
But it also has a flirty, feminine attitude with gauzy dresses nipped at the waist with sculpted necklines and unembellished cotton shirtdresses in lilac and pink. For evening, Posen is in a more transparent mood, creating sculpted gowns of mesh fabric embroidered with glass beads or big metallic polka dots.
Unlike many young designers, Posen has a real love for construction and technique. On Project Runway, he's always the first to inspect a design to see how it is made. By the end of his runway show, many in the audience were just as eager to get a closer look at the collection and wonder, "How did he do that?"