HTX New York Fashion Week spring 2016
New York Fashion Week Preview

New York Fashion Week preview: Top designers and up-and-comers (Serena, too) serve up inspiration and new ideas


Marchesa inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Marchesa
Monique Lhuillier inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 016
Courtesy of Monique Lhuillier
Lela Rose inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2015
Courtesy of Lela Rose
Serena Williams inspiration sketch for HSN collection at New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of HSN Serena Williams Signature Statement
J Mendel inspiration sketch for New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy J Mendel
Angel Sanchez inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Angel Sanchez
Suno inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Suno
Pamella Roland inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Pamella Roland
Milly inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Milly
Christian Siriano inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Christian Siriano
Paul Andrew inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week Fall 2016
Courtesy of Paul Andrew
BCBG Max Azria inspiration sketch fall 2016 collection New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of BCBG Maz Azria
Nicole Miller inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2015
Courtesy of Nicole Miller
Yigal Azrouel inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Yigal Azrouel
Rachel Zoe inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2015
Courtesy of Rachel Zoe
Wes Gordon inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Wes Gordon
Tadashi Shoji inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Tadashi Shoji
Cesar Galindo Czar inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Cesar Galindo
Eli Tahari spring 2016 sketch New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Eli Tahari
Dennis Basso inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Dennis Basso
Desigual inspiration New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Desigual
Nicholas K sketch inspiration New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Coutesy of Nicholas K
Son Jung Wan sketch and inspiration New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Son Jung Wan
Hellessy designer Sylvie Millstein spring 2016 sketch New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of Hellessy
Noor By Noor inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Noor By Noor
WHIT inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2015
Courtesy of WHIT
Ji Oh inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Ji Oh
Rebecca Taylor inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week Fall 2016
Courtesy of Rebecca Taylor
Taoray Wang inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Taoray Wang
CG inspiration sketch for spring 2016 New York Fashion Week
Courtesy of CG
Area inspiration sketch New York Fashion Week spring 2016
Courtesy of Area
Joie spring 2016 New York Fashion Week inspiration sketch
Courtesy in Joie

Fashion is always changing, and that's certainly true as New York Fashion Week kicks off. The event has a new, more streamlined name (no clunky title sponsor this time around) and two new venues — one near Madison Square Garden and one further downtown near the Meatpacking District.

Organizers got kicked out of Lincoln Center, the scene of fashion week since 2010, because neighbors didn't like the noise and fashion riffraff hanging out in the theater plaza. But they are touting the move as an opportunity to get back to their fashion roots in a less commercialized atmosphere.

No matter the venues, one thing remains the same: Designers continue to come up with inspiration and ideas for the fashions you'll be wearing next spring.

As we kick off our exclusive coverage, we asked a host of established and up-and-coming designers to provide a sneak peek. The results are both interesting and intriguing, ranging from exotic Morocco to the beauty found in car rims — and an appearance by tennis great Serena Williams.

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Designer: Marchesa co-founders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig

Inspiration: “Aviary garden.” 

Designer: Monique Lhuillier

Inspiration: “I was inspired by contemporary artists Ellsworth Kelly and Jackson Pollock. Their art is dynamic, with the use of bold colors, and has a sense of freedom. I translated their use of vibrant colors with sculptural shapes and embellished beadwork.”

Designer: Lela Rose

Inspiration: Sam Falls and tonal variations of color.

Designer: Serena Williams

Inspiration: “Throughout my life, I’ve always believed in pushing boundaries ... whether it’s in tennis, business, or fashion. By offering my Signature Statement collection exclusively through an innovative retailer like HSN, I’m able to communicate directly with my fans.

"This year my runway show will be broadcast live, and you can shop the collection immediately afterward. That is exciting to me and not common in fashion today.”

 

Designer: J. Mendel's Gilles Mendel

Inspiration: “For spring 2016, I was inspired by a recent trip to Tokyo and traditional Japanese kimono prints and folding techniques. I was interested in the play between structure and volume, between discipline and femininity.”

Designer: Angel Sanchez

Inspiration: "A sunny and cheerful spring."

Designer: Suno designers Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis

Inspiration: "This season started at the American Folk Art Museum – a tiny little space on the Upper West Side – featuring an exhibition titled 'When the Curtain Never Comes Down: Performance Art and the Alter Ego.' The exhibit focused on a range of artists, generally unknown, who were compelled, most often through trauma and madness, to create art. 

"What most fascinated us was the sense of order their art clearly brought to their lives – the organizing of random shapes, the collections of objects (like bottles or sandals or miniature glass vases), the deeply intricate embroideries.

"From these we set out to develop our own language of geometric shapes, orders, and textures. Squares layered upon squares, upon fabric with square cutouts. Flowers quilted with stripes bordered with miniature geometric prints.  While rich in color and saturation, the colors mix together in unusual ways – evocative, but not bright or jarring. 

"Overall, the collection is distinctly feminine and eccentric, like the artists who inspired it, celebrating the creative needs and expressions of the woman who wears it."

Designer: Pamella Roland

Inspiration: The colors, shapes, and composition of minimalist master Frank Stella.

Designer: Michelle Smith, founder of Milly

Inspiration: "The Milly woman is in the throes of a modern summer romance. Clean, minimal, sexy silhouettes set off an intense, vibrant color palette inspired by the sun and the sea."

Designer: Christian Siriano

Inspiration: "The imperial cities of Morocco were an initial source of inspiration for my spring/summer 2016 collection. I was drawn to the culture and lifestyle, particularly the annual traditional Feast of the Throne celebration in Marrakesh, for which notables dress head-to-toe in beautifully draped white linens.

"Nature and architecture of the region were also sources of inspiration for this collection: crisp, clean sand tones are represented in cream and khaki separates for day, with blush and sunset tones for evening. The colors found in Moroccan wedding blankets were stimulating and inspiring as well.

"Decorative wrought iron, wood work, and sculpted stone are interpreted through texture and embroidery. Delicate lattice details echo the light and shadow of local architecture. It is a strikingly romantic and feminine collection."

Designer: Paul Andrew

Inspiration: "Each season I take a city as inspiration and this season it's Hong Kong. I visited at the beginning of the year and was immediately struck by all the physical beauty, but also the incredibly rich culture. There is so much to inspire there!"

Designer: BCBG Max Azria

Inspiration: Sun, sea, and the rugged landscapes of Southern California inspire color, while global craft influences technique and texture.

Designer: Nicole Miller

Inspiration: "My spring collection is a study in contrasts all inspired by New York City. The beauty of the flowers and trees in juxtaposition with the concrete and grit gave a lot of visual appeal. 

"It has a softness with a hard edge. I combined a lot of elements, from the street art to the actual infrastructure, to create this collection."

Designer: Yigal Azrouel

Inspiration: Light and Shadows, Kenzo Tange, Illusive.

Designer: Rachel Zoe

Inspiration: "Spring 2016 is romantic in a modern way with moments of 1970s safari.”

Designer: Wes Gordon

Inspiration: Modern romanticism. Bold yellows, slate blues, whites, and reds. Movement, energy, and Victorian detailing. Texture. Demure strength. Ironic combinations of floral lace and plaid cottons. Pleating and delicate fabric manipulations. Connections between material and form. A depth of secrets beneath a vibrant surface.

Designer: Tadashi Shoji

Inspiration: "Blossoming memories."

Designer: Cesar Galindo

Inspiration: "Hippie chic. A Janis Joplin glam moment all wrapped up in sophistication."

Designer: Elie Tahari

Inspiration: “A futuristic desert nomad.”

Designer: Dennis Basso

Inspiration: “South of the border.”

Designer: Desigual

Description: "This season's collection is filled with handmade details and wild prints, reminiscent of Barcelona's graffiti artists and the modernist motifs that adorn the city's classic buildings."

Designer: Nicholas K

Inspiration: "Free fall."

Designer: Son Jung Wan

Inspiration: "This season I was inspired by Korea's Jeju Island, an Aquarian beauty."

Designer: Sylvie Millstein of Hellessy

Inspiration: "Rooftop sunset."

Designer: Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa of Noor By Noor

Inspiration: "Spring 2016 is effortless and sporty with relaxed silhouettes, oversized proportions, and modern fabrics. Iconic styles are reworked using soft pastels, vivid pops of color, graphic prints, and unique textures.

Overall, the collection is light and fresh, with an effortless, youthful spirit."

 

Designer: Whitney Pozgay of WHIT

Inspiration: "Hot air balloon safari."

Designer: Ji Oh

Description: "This season, I was inspired by the city, streetwear, and the bold and rebellious attitude of city girls. My curiosity was triggered by the confidence to wear nontraditional silhouettes that are out of proportion, off-balanced, or oversized.

"This collection plays with the idea of exaggeration. It’s playful, boxy, and oversized, but also sexy in a not-so-obvious way."

Designer: Rebecca Taylor

Inspiration: The spring 2016 collection was inspired by London’s informal association of artists and intellectuals known as the Bloomsbury set. The members of Bloomsbury group called into question the traditions of their day and were among the best known examples of early bohemia fashion that reflected their lifestyle.

Tapestry garden print and patched dresses with quilted bodices in elongated shapes give the collection an eclectic feel. Crochet lace in mosaic patterns are mixed with frayed chambray and floral prints. Citrus brights are juxtaposed with pastels and grounded with navy and ivory. Grommet details fused with lace patterns add to the overall collection balancing fragility with strength.

Designer: Taoray Wang

Inspiration: "For spring 2016 I was inspired by the epic film Out of Africa."

Designer: Chris Gelinas of CG

Inspiration: “Escaping the noise and the silence of intimacy."

Designer: Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk of Area

Inspiration: "The deliberate style choices and energy of shiny, glossy makeup and polished car rims.”

As a closing note, Joie gives us a look ahead to Paris, where the label will be showing its spring 2016 collection.

Designer: Rachel Wilder, vice president of design for Joie

Inspiration: “A seductive world of '70s icons inhabited by the likes of Charlotte Rampling. An English rose with a rock-and-roll spirit, the spring 2016 collection weaves a web of modern romance, bohemian dreams, and British eccentricity. 

"Inspired by the quintessential English garden, roses, peonies, and petunias layer together to create this lush canvas. All-over lace, new eyelets, and soft ruffles add romantic detail juxtaposed with leather, chambray, and denim. 

"This season captures a moment of youthful rebellion and the ethereal magic of a time where love was in the air and the music was everything.”

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