Sketch this: Screen sirens, bright colors & Coney Island are New Yo...

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Oscar de la Renta

Before a collection hits the runway, designers sketch out their ideas, which are then transformed into looks that (hopefully) dazzle buyers and the fashion press at fashion week before appearing in stores six months later.

That's the situation as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week kicks off Thursday at New York's Lincoln Center. With a sluggish economy and split buying habits (people with money are buying again; people without money aren't), designers are having a heck of time figuring out what buyers really want.

So what do we expect to see on the runway? These sketches, provided by an assortment of well-known and up-and-coming designers, provide a few clues. Think clean, timeless looks with a retro twinge and some star power. Here's a sneak peek:

Oscar de la Renta tantalizes us with a new take on the classic wing tip. He didn't elaborate on his inspiration for his spring 2012 collection, but we're guessing it heralds an edgier look for the master of fashion.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of DKNY

For her DKNY line, Donna Karan sums up the mood for spring in three words: "Red, white, blue."

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Rebecca Taylor

A pared-down cool attitude sets the tone for the Rebecca Taylor collection. Her muse is contemporary, fresh, and ethereal, with unexpected cut-outs in silhouettes and shades of oyster, highlighted by bold citrus colors of lemon, lime and tangerine.

The collection promises cropped slouchy embellished sweaters, long skirts, voluminous outerwear in technical fabrics for a little edge, and apron back dresses mixed with bone colored snake leather bibs.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

News_Sketch_Tommy Hilfiger_Inspired by Girl on the Go

Tommy Hilfiger says he is designing his spring collection for "the girl on the go." Our translation: It's clothing that works in any situation, with lots of separates that can be mixed and matched.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Barbara Tfank

Barbara Tfank, who will show her spring 2012 collection during Fashion Houston at the Wortham Center Oct. 10, plans to pay tribute to screen icon Elizabeth Taylor. "I was inspired by Andy Warhol's prints of her, in both the vibrant colors and the way he translated her image in a new and modern way," she says.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Callula Lillibelle

News_Sketch_Callula Lillibelle_Spring 2012

Callula Lillibelle designers William Calvert and Melanie Frasier also are looking to a screen icon for their spring inspiration. “The woman that symbolizes the 'every woman' icon today and brings the level of grace, glamour, command and unapologetic femininity of a modern day Sophia Loren," they say.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of St. John

St. John creative director says the spring collection is inspired by singer Carly Simon. "She epitomizes the free spirit that is American glamour. Cool classic, effortless chic," he says. Although this sketch reminds us of another icon: Diana Ross.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Fontini

New to fashion week, the Canadian designer Fotini says she found inspiration "in images of mysterious and confident women from Mario Testino's portraits in 'Todo o Nada,' Penelope Cruz's performance in 'Blow' and Angelina Jolie in everything she does. I am dressing a woman with this same cinematic sex appeal, the eternal sensuality of a strong woman in charge of her pleasure and destiny. “

“She's always a lady, but she never gives a damn."

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Jenny Packham

Jenny Packham chose these lines from the Rolling Stones' song, "She's a Rainbow," for her inspiration:

“Have you seen her all in gold
Like a queen in days of old
She shoots colors all around
Like a sunset going down.”

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Lela Rose

Lela Rose promises to give a new twist to her party frocks for spring because she says she's inspired by "the neon graveyard—unrestored, faded and broken neon signs that dot the landscape of Las Vegas and Coney Island."

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Chris Benz

Chris Benz also looked to Coney Island for inspiration, but in a more upbeat tone. “Spring 2012 was inspired by the thrill of the exotic, especially the nostalgia of the summer spectacle of Coney Island,” he said.

Courtesy of Sketches courtesy of Ports 1961

Fiona Cibani, creative director of Ports 1961, has a bit of a Blade Runner vibe for the line's spring collection. “Broken glass, iridescent shine, and mosaic abstractions, express the future deluxe," she explains.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Ruffian

Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais say they are "Off to the Races" for spring. The theme for their show is "Thoroughbred" and this red jacket and ruffled skirt seems suited for a day at Saratoga.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Rachel Roy

“Colonial Vietnam: old world, romantic, refined simplicity" is the inspiration for Rachel Roy's collection.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Son Jung Wan

One of the largest designer labels in Korea, Son Jung Wan is looking to the isle of Capri and its blue waters for spring.
“From the Piazzetta to Faraglioni Rocks, every inch of Capri is steeped with beautiful views and awe inspiring colors of nature. Of course, no visit to Capri is complete without a trip and swim in the Blue Grotto. That rich beautiful blue hue gave me inspiration for spring 2012,” she says.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Christian Siriano

News_Sketch_Christian Siriano_Spring 2012

One of Project Runway's most successful alumni, Christian Siriano plans a fierce collection. "Spring 2012 is all about a cool, hip, attitude when getting dressed. Casual luxury while traveling and exploring exotic beaches around the world," he says.

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Libertine

Johnson Hartig, designer of the Libertine spring collection, describes his inspiration this way: "The absence of flaw in beauty is itself a flaw."

Courtesy of Sketch courtesy of Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese says she is inspired by a "land of pure delight," pairing soft voluminous styles with lean, refined silhouettes.

A drapey culotte jumpsuit, complemented with drawstring waist and seductive neckline details, is paired with a lemon zest hat and printed platform sandals to embody the relaxed mood of the season, she explains.

Sketch this: Screen sirens, bright colors & Coney Island are New York fashion week inspirations