Laurenzo's

When you're the grandson of a Tex-Mex legend (Mama Ninfa, to be exact), it might be tempting to keep doing what you know and not rock the boat. But Roland Laurenzo and exec chef Domenic Laurenzo has rolled the dice with his family's first entry into traditionally American cuisine, Laurenzo's Grille. The wood-heavy interiors also have a few art deco accents, juxtaposed against the sports memorabilia on the walls (the original name of the place was Laurenzo's Grille Dello Sport, nixed when sports fans came in looking for buffalo wings). Prime rib is the specialty of the house, drawing some raves though it has, to us, a less-than-appealing look and texture. We've also heard of serious problems with the thicker cuts coming out undercooked and uneven. Some of the highlights on the menu are iterations of things that the Laurenzo family has been doing for years, namely the chile con queso with beef, margaritas and the roast beef quesadilla. Laurenzo's has carved out a niche on Washington Avenue, but it'll take some work on the steaks and the service to go head-to-head with the other steakhouses in town.

All the memorabilia on the walls is for sale, with the proceeds going to charity.