Nestled among the posh surroundings of The Houstonian Hotel is an often-overlooked culinary find: Olivette. The restaurant's menu changes with the season. Such appetizers as braised veal ravioli, spicy tuna tartare with lemon confit and roasted crab cake with avocado and grapefruit are a meal in themselves. The restaurant is a master at cooking fish, and the pork and beef dishes are always reliable bets.
Save room for dessert. Old-fashioned desserts are often given a modern, light twist. At times, they’re almost too pretty to eat. But eat them we shall. Otherwise, we’ll wish later that we had forked into that lemon olive oil cake with lavender honey or that strawberry and almond shortcake with crème fraiche. And the only thing that can be said about the chocolate pudding cake with fudge sauce and hazelnut ice cream is “Oh my!”