La Griglia could serve warm tap water and cold Vienna sausages on a stick and it’d still be packed. The theatrical décor bursting with multicolored mosaics and murals is worthy of an Oscar for best set design, and the River Oaks crowd at this restaurant often look like they’re ready to walk the red carpet. But eye-candy aside, the food at this Italian grill is consistently good.
The rich shrimp and crab cheesecake appetizer is a decadent way to start your meal if you’re not into calorie counting. Entrée favorites include a roasted wild boar chop in a sherry morel sauce and grilled yellowfin tuna with roasted tomatoes and shiitake mushrooms in a savory ponzu. The bar scene here is more animated than a Pixar film, and the noise level is usually high and frequently punctuated by loud laughter, just as we like it. The new-and-improved patio is where it's at.