Hubcap Grill owner Ricky Craig has opened his New Orleans-inspired restaurant in Galveston, and it’s just the sort of upscale casual restaurant the island needs. Located in a historic space on the eastern edge of The Strand, the room has a throwback look of simple wooden tables and mid-century modern lighting fixtures.
Dishes ranging from head-on shrimp and grits to smoked fish-onion dip to a fried seafood platter and even a massive smoked beef rib served with grilled shrimp all showed good cooking technique and thoughtful preparations. In particular, the onion dip, which seems like a throwaway item, had a good balance of smoke, creaminess and bright onion flavor that balanced out the saltiness of the housemade potato chips.
If Craig can keep the kitchen on track, Harborside could emerge as a legitimate dining destination in a city that has only a few noteworthy spots.