If you’re ever curious what an eastern European restaurant might look like, pay Charivari a visit. This Midtown cornerstone could easily be transported to Prague or Budapest. Chef/owner Johann Schuster has a keen precision with his cuisine that comes from years of working in restaurants all over Europe.
The menu showcases several Italian dishes, but they’re not necessarily Schuster’s strength. Dishes that excel are often inspired by his homeland—Transylvania, Romania—or those rooted in Germany and its surrounding areas. His wiener schnitzel is perhaps the best in the city. The veal is pounded paper thin and encased in a delicate, crispy crust that’s puffy with air pockets. Juicy and meaty, it’s served with a potato salad tossed with vinaigrette and red onions for a refreshing contrast. And like in Vienna, it’s served with a sliver of anchovy. Steaks are another Schuster specialty. They’re served with crispy home-fried potatoes that are creamy inside, but slightly crispy on the outside.